Adhesive Tape

UGlu MTR703 Multi-purpose Industrial Strength Adhesive Strip Variety Pack Review

This is hands down one of the best adhesive products I've ever used. I know I'm reiterating things other reviewers have said, but it bears repeating...

1) Easy to apply. Get some sharp scissors, cut off a piece, slap it on and press. Instant bond, no mess.
2) Tough, flexible bonding. This is truly the "bamboo tree" of adhesives. While superglue bonds can give and leave you with messy, spackled edges, this adhesive will bend and stretch under pressure. Pressing your project back into proper form takes minimal effort and it will keep holding.
3) If you have to re-apply the glue or remove it, it is very easy to remove. They say "use soap and water". You don't have to. Here's a trick for ya. Color over the exposed adhesive with a permanent marker, wait five minutes, and then scrape it off using a fingernail or a penny. Wad it up and toss it in the trash. Done.

Lastly, you get a ton of it for your money. I don't think I'll be able to use it all up for years. Highly recommended.

UGlu MTR703 Multi-purpose Industrial Strength Adhesive Strip Variety Pack Feature

• Strength of adhesives with the convenience of tape
• Waterproof and weatherproof
• Bonds to almost any material
• Bonds on rough or uneven surfaces
• Non Toxic acid free

UGlu MTR703 Multi-purpose Industrial Strength Adhesive Strip Variety Pack Overview

UGlu adhesive is an amazing way to bond many different surfaces together. UGlu combines the strength of adhesive with the convenience and ease of tape. You will even be able to bond surfaces that are rough and uneven instantly! Unlike glue you won't have to wait or deal with the mess, drips, cleanup or hassle! UGlu will hold up to 2 lbs and can be cut to the custom size you need! It provides an instant bond that is faster than super glue, but has no cure time and can be cleanly removed. UGlu is non-toxic and acid free, and made in the USA!

UGlu MTR703 Multi-purpose Industrial Strength Adhesive Strip Variety Pack Specifications

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So you have decided you want to remove your ugly warts. Not only are they ugly they can sometimes be irritating. These irritating bumps on your skin are caused by the human pappilloma virus abbreviated as HPV. Due to the fact that warts are viral in nature makes them contagious.

When deciding to get rid of these warts there are a few things you need to take into consideration. Do not just go cutting them off yourself. This could cause an infection. If you are diabetic you should consult a doctor before you do anything.

In the case of dealing with common warts you will see at the top of the bump there can be a break in the skin. In actual fact you may be able to see little dots which are the blood vessels that keep the little blither alive.

Do not pick at this. Because they are contagious you could spread the virus to other places on your body and you may spread it to others also. If you ever have to touch it wash your hands in warm water immediately.

One of the most common ways to get rid of warts uses the simple technique of adhesive tape. There are different schools of thought about how long you should leave it on for. Some people say a few days - others say one day - then replace it.

The tape just basically rips the wart off layer by layer. Do what is most effective for you. You could leave it on for a couple of days then remove it and see what is left and adjust the procedure from there.

In the event you have common warts on your hands you can also use the simple technique of boiling water and placing your hands in it to help get rid of the wart. Warts do not like hot water. Just always remember to dry off thoroughly as they do like moisture.

If you have tried all of the above and failed and would like a step by step method to quickly get rid of your warts then select any of the links provided. There is a method that as worked for a lot of people. They guarantee that it will work for you - if not you get your money back. You owe it to yourself to try it out.

Do you want step by step guidance to prevent Moles, warts and skin tags?

Learn How to get rid of skin tags.

Home remedies for warts.

Every profession has tools of the trade, and the tattoo industry is no exception. All the ink, flash, stencils and needles in the world would be worthless without the tattoo gun. Your tattooist will definitely know what you're talking about when you used the word "gun", but it's a generally thought of as an amateur term. Professionals usually just say "machine" or use the term "iron".

The first tattoo machines where based on something Thomas Edison (that's right, that Thomas Edison) invented in the year 1876 called the Autograph Engraver. The device was originally meant to be an engraving machine. The design was improved upon some years later by a man named Samuel O'Rielly who came up with and needle and rod system and ink reservoir. The modern day machine has evolved quite a lot since O'Rielly's version. The first apparatus resembling the current model was so heavy; it was often mounted to the ceiling with a spring so that the majority of the weight was taken off the tattooist's hand.

The version used today allows for much more precision in depth, saturation, everything. In fact, the art of tattoo application has become so precise that dermapigmentation, or applying permanent cosmetics to the delicate skin of the face and eyelids is possible and popular. The gun works on an alternating current system, similar to a sewing machine. The needle moves between 80 and 150 times per second, speeding up the process, cutting down on skin irritation and allowing the artist to work without moving very much so that his hand remains as steady as possible.

The needles are soldered into tubes in all different numbers and arrangements. The purpose in having a variety of configurations is the same as a more conventional artist having more than one paint brush. Each one produces a different effect. Some are for outlining, some are for shading to varying degrees and some create a solid fill. The general mechanics of a tattoo gun are fairly simply. In fact, some inventive person could put one together at home with parts of things you probably have lying around the house. There are several very good reasons you should never, ever do this, injury and disease to name just two, but since when has that stopped everybody?

* An ink pen

* Guitar string

* A tooth brush, or something similar (you'll see in a minute)

* The eraser from the top of a #2 pencil

* A small, battery operated motor, like what would be in a hand held cassette player

* Tape, or some sort of adhesive to hold it all together

* Some sewing needles

First you take four or five inches of guitar string and bend a little bit toward the end. Next, you remove the tube of ink from the pen. Cut it down to three or four inches long, then remove the brass ball at the end, making sure the opening created is large enough for a needle to pass through. Insert the needle into the tube. Then decapitate the toothbrush. Use a lighter, or some other flame to heat the plastic just until it's soft enough to bend, and then do so in an L shape.

Then, use your adhesive of choice to join the tube/needle combo to the long end of the L. Gently push the eraser onto the motor's shaft, getting it as centered as possible, then attach the motor to the short end of the L. Stick the bent end of the guitar string should be pushed (off center) into the eraser, and the other end should go through the tube and attached to the needle. The thinner the tube, the more control you will have over the gun. Now that you know how to manufacture a tattoo machine, DON'T!

Find out how to set up a tattoo gun at http://www.tattoodles.info/tattoo-artist-tips/how-to-set-up-a-tattoo-gun

People with problems of sagging abdominal areas usually consider the tummy tuck or abdominoplasty procedure. This process is an effective way to tighten your stomach and muscle areas for firmer and flatter abs. It also takes out the excess or wrinkled skin and fats as well. Stretch marks obtained after pregnancy by some women can be eliminated by going through this tummy tuck procedure.

The tummy tuck procedure is best for abdominal wall deformities obtained after pregnancy or as a result of ageing and marked weight loss. This procedure also takes out the fat tissues, which are most commonly located in the lower abdomen and has been the number one problem of all women of various age groups. Though liposuction helps, the remaining loose skin must be given special attention and proper treatment to obtain the desired shape of the body.

The first step in the tummy tuck procedure is the administration of the anesthesia. This process is being done by an anesthesiologist to provide the patient comfort during the whole session. The choices for this first step include intravenous sedation or general anesthesia.

Next is the incision. The full tummy tuck procedure is made with a horizontal incision that starts from the navel down to the pubic area. This incision style actually weakens the muscles of the abdomen which will then be ready for repairs and sutures, all the while removing the excess fat, tissue and layers of skin.

Third step of the tummy tuck procedure are the sutures, skin adhesives, tapes or clips to close the incisions of the skin.

And for the last step, is the recovery and waiting period. This step is the most exciting since the end result may not be visible immediately after the tummy tuck procedure. Swelling and redness along your midsection is quite normal and it will gradually return to its normal state in a matter of weeks.

The tummy tuck procedure will make your abdomen flatter with firmer muscles in the midsection areas, thus giving you more confidence of your body.

For more information about Tummy Tuck Procedure, feel free to visit us at: http://www.about-tummy-tucks.com/article-9-Tummy-Tuck-Procedure.html

The main component of cheap wireless home security is the wireless security camera. When you hear people talking about going wireless with their home security, they usually mean that have replaced their old security cameras with modern wireless ones.

Going wireless means that you don't have to mess around with all the wires that come with surveillance equipment. This is especially helpful when using security cameras because installing them will become easier without all the wires.

Wires will also sometimes blow the cover of your security camera, thus intruders will be able to point blind spots that your camera does not cover.

Benefits of Cheap Wireless Home Security:

1. Homeowner will be able to monitor activities within and outside of their home.

- Keep watch on your kids wherever they are in the house.
- Prevent intruders from entering your home or use the footage to identify the intruder

2. Setting up the surveillance will not require the homeowner to hire a professional to work out all the wire. They can install the equipment themselves. Some pieces of equipment do not even require to be screwed into the wall, most of them come with their own strong adhesive tape.

3. Cheap does not mean bad quality, there a lot of affordable home security systems in the market today.

4. Buying cheap means the homeowner can purchase more surveillance equipment for their home. With more equipment, the homeowner will be assured that all spots in their residence are covered.

5. Home security is different from home surveillance. Home security will do more than tell you what is happening in your home. There are some systems that are programmed to contact the right authorities should trouble arrive in your home.

6. As a follow-up to benefit #5, the cheap wireless home security system will provide the homeowner with complete piece of mind. They will be able to sleep soundly at night knowing that there is a blanket of protection over their home.

Discover more about wireless home security. Get free tips and advise on cheap wireless home security.

Knowing dog first aid skills are very important, just as with humans and knowing what to do in the event of an emergency may mean the difference between life and death for your dog. Dog emergencies or any other extreme medical situations require that you get your dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible.

Of course, not every possible ailment will need professional treatment but better safe than sorry. If your dog ever receives any kind of injury it is always best that you be aware of what to do in advance (depending on what type of injury the dog has received). Different kinds of injuries require different kinds of treatments. Many kinds of injuries may require immediate medical assistance. It is a very good idea to know how to prevent any dog emergencies, treat various minor injuries with first aid and just when you need to seek immediate veterinary assistance and care.

In case an emergency ever were to happen it is easy to prepare for it in advance by creating your own dog first aid kit. It is very easy to create. Good ideas for containers could be a lunch box, a tackle box or some other shoe box sized plastic container. Water-proof and strong enough to withstand mild pressure is the best idea.

It would be a great idea to label the first aid kit on all sides with something such as "Dog First Aid Kit". It's also a very good idea to list a description of your dog(s) including it's name, color, weight, any health issues, distinguishing characteristics with a recent photo labeled with the name of every pet that you own.

An index card with the numbers of your local veterinarian, poison control, and other canine emergency numbers for your dog (emergency vet, etc) is also a good thing to include in the dog first aid kit. Here is a list of several items you should put in your dog first aid kit with brief explanations as to what each item is for. Remember, your dog's health may depend on it.

Dog First Aid Kit Basic Ingredients List:

Activated charcoal: for poisonings (1 gram per pound, mixed with water),

Antihistamine tablets: for insect stings and allergic reactions,

Betadine or Nolvasan: cleaning open wounds,

Blankets: several if possible, to help prevent against shock in the event of an accident or injury as well as a good way to transport an injured dog,

Blunt nosed scissors: to cut tape and clip. Keep these scissors with the kit.

Canine rectal thermometer: to take the dog or puppies temperature,

Cortisone ointment: Used as a topical anti-inflammatory,

Cotton balls and swabs: Used mainly to clean wounds,

Eyedropper or dosage syringe: to apply medications to your dog,

Eyewash: to irrigate the eyes of your dog,

First-aid cream: to sooth and protect wounds,

Gauze bandage: for wrapping wounds,

Gloves: both thin plastic to avoid contamination and thicker ones if you have a fear of being bitten,

Hand towels: to dry hands, for clean up, etc.,

Hydrogen peroxide (3%): has various uses, one of which is to induce vomiting,

Kaolin and pectin: to help diarrhea (1 teaspoon per 10 pounds),

Magnifying glass: to help locate any tiny objects

Muzzle: even the best dog may bite when in extreme pain. If you don't have one you can also make one from strips of soft long fabric, tube socks, etc.,

Nail clippers: best case scenario, have both human and canine nail clippers,

Non-stick adhesive tape: to help tape bandages in place,

Non-stinging antiseptic spray: to help clean wounds,

Pepto-Bismol , Maalox or Kaopectate: to help relieve minor stomach upsets,

Petroleum jelly: for use with the rectal thermometer, also an aid in constipation (1/2 teaspoon per 10 pounds),

Saline solution: can be used for many things such as irrigating wounds,

Stretch bandages: for wound dressing,

Styptic pencil: to stop minor bleeding,

Syrup of Ipecac: used to induce vomiting (1 teaspoon per 20 pounds),

Tweezers or hemostat: use to pull our splinters or other small foreign objects,

Vegetable oil: for mild constipation (1 teaspoon per 5 pounds, mix it in with food)

If you can think of other items to add to your dog first aid kit, feel free to do so. This list is just a place to get you started in creating your own dog first aid kit.

Any of the following symptoms or injuries require IMMEDIATE medical action from your veterinarian. Contact your vet immediately if your dog or puppy has any of the following:

Been hit by a vehicle,

No pulse or heart beat,

Broken bones,

Puncture wounds to the abdomen or chest,

Spurting blood,

Bleeding from nose or mouth,

Bloated abdomen,

Repeated vomiting,

Pale gums,

Diarrhea for more than 18 hours,

Muscle tremors,

Problems with breathing or swallowing,

Refusal to eat for 48 hours,

Seizures or disorientation,

Unusual swellings (especially ones that are sudden, hard or fast growing)

In any emergency situation try and keep as calm as possible and to get your dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. If anything ever happens, call first to see if the office is open, and to let the vet know what has happened and that you and your dog are on your way.

If your veterinarians office is not open for whatever the reason, call your nearest emergency vet clinic. Always keep all emergency phone numbers, including those of your veterinarian and emergency veterinarian clinic, near your telephone.

Debbie Ray, owner of http://www.pedigreedpups.com , http://www.cheap-legal-help.com and http://www.total-german-shepherd.com is a lifelong dog owner, teacher and internet business owner. Want to learn more about internet business? Purebred dogs? Let me teach you.

Copyright 2007 . Debbie Ray . All Rights Reserved

3M 00021200393839 396 6"x36yd Trnsprnt Super Bond Film Tape Review

3M 00021200393839 396 6"x36yd Trnsprnt Super Bond Film Tape Feature

• Package Quantity: (1) 36 Yard Roll
• Type: Film Tape
• Width (Inch): 6
• Color: Transparent
• Length (Yards) (Yards): 36
• Thickness (mil): 4.1
• Tape Number: 396

3M 00021200393839 396 6"x36yd Trnsprnt Super Bond Film Tape Overview

Specialty - Industrial Tape Type: Film Tape Width: 6 Color: Transparent Length (Yards): 36

3M 00021200393839 396 6"x36yd Trnsprnt Super Bond Film Tape Specifications

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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Feb 26, 2010 23:15:03

Color - Grey, Thickness - .02, Size - 4" x 60' Roll, General Purpose, Anti-Slip Tape (1 Roll) Review

Color - Grey, Thickness - .02, Size - 4" x 60' Roll, General Purpose, Anti-Slip Tape (1 Roll) Feature

Color - Grey, Thickness - .02, Size - 4" x 60' Roll, General Purpose, Anti-Slip Tape (1 Roll) Overview

Laminated vinyl film with pressure sensitive adhesive back. Good tear strength. Light soft feel. Comfortable on bare feet and hands. Simply position, peel off backing paper, and apply to a clean, dry, oil free surface. 35000 series is surface compatible with painted wood, metal or sealed concrete. 41000 series is surface compatible with painted metal, sealed concrete, porcelain and fiberglass. Improves traction in both wet and dry applications. All rolls are 60 feet long and can be cut with scissors.

Color - Grey, Thickness - .02, Size - 4" x 60' Roll, General Purpose, Anti-Slip Tape (1 Roll) Specifications

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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Feb 25, 2010 14:20:03

A hardwood floor undoubtedly adds charm, character and value to a home. Beautiful and hard-wearing, they almost never need to be replaced. With a huge variety of woods, finishes and designs, hardwood floors offer an endless choice of possibilities to suit any type of home.

Sub floor preparation

o All sub floors must be clean, level, absolutely flat and dry. Scrape and smooth any debris off the surface, sand high areas or joints and fill low areas and cracks with the proper compounds.

o Prepare all doorways and walls - undercut all door casings and remove all moldings.

o Concrete sub-floors must be completely cured and dried (8-12 weeks old) with minimum surface temperature of 60ºF (15ºC) and maximum moisture content of 2% dry-weight basis. The ideal relative humidity in the room should be 55%.

o Wood sub floors need to be well secured with counter sunk screws on ring shank nails. It should not exceed 14% moisture prior to installation.

Floating Installation

Spread and unroll the required polyethylene cushioning underlayment parallel to the longest wall (they can be trimmed after the installation has been completed). Allow sufficient overlap on all joints with the next sheets; use double adhesive tape to fix the joints. Complete until the whole surface is covered with the underlayment. Pick the first floorboard and align it with the closest wall, groove side facing the wall. The installation should begin from the right corner of the room.

Use ½" (12mm) temporary spacing-wedges to create the necessary gaps from the walls. Pick the second board, apply 1/8" (3mm) glue bead at the inner topside of the groove at the board end, and start jointing the board in the row. Never apply glue onto the tongue. Continue the same steps until the first row is competed.

Use a specially designed crowbar to push all the joints tight at the same time. Use this crowbar to tighten joints from the sides and use clamps whenever necessary to ensure tight and square joints. Never fail to wipe off any excess glue immediately. Repeat all processes and install the rest of the floor.

Allow the finished floor to be free from load and traffic for at least 8 hours before all temporary spacing wedges are removed. Install all the skirtings/moldings the next day, making sure that they are fixed onto the adjacent wall only, and not directly fixed onto the floor.

Nail Down Installation

This method of flooring installation gives some advantages over other methods such as speed, reduced labor materials and more immediate "use" of the floor. However, the process is more difficult and some professional assistance may be required.

Lay the first floorboard as for floating floorboards. Once the floorboard is aligned perfectly, face nail the board with the nail perpendicular to the surface. Use 1 - 1.5" finishing nails depending on the thickness of the floorboards installed. Continue the same step until the first row is completed.

Start the second row in the same manner. From the second row on, nailing is done on the tongue side only. Continue to install all the remaining rows.

The final row of flooring is usually narrow and it will likely be necessary to rip floorboards lengthwise to fill in the row. Measure the remaining space and cut the boards accordingly, ensuring a ½" (12mm) gap at all sides. Nail down this last row in the same manner as the nailing of the first row, and complete the installation. Once the nail down work is completed, install all the skirting and moldings. Make sure that all skirtings/moldings are fixed onto the adjacent wall only, NOT directly to the floor.

Glue Down Installation

This method of installation requires fans to create airflow and to help speed up the drying time of the adhesives. This type of installation does not need any cushioning underlayment.

Determine the working area to begin the installation in and the longest wall in the room with access. Make a test and dry lay floorboards beforehand, if necessary. A starting block is recommended to help the initial floorboard placement. Nail the starting block down firmly along the starting line, within the working area, to help hold the first row of the installed floorboards firmly in place.

The adhesive should be used sparingly over an area that can be laid with flooring within 3 hours. Pick the first floorboard and align it with the starting line (starting block) along the groove's edge. The installation should ideally start from the right side. Lay the first floorboard and ensure that there is a 12mm (1/2") gap from the adjacent wall.

Pick the second board, apply 1/8" (3mm) glue bead on the inner topside of the groove at the board end and start jointing the board in the row. Never apply glue on the tongue. Continue the same steps with the next floorboard and complete the first row. Use a specially designed crow bar to pull the last board into place. Push joints tight and drive spacing wedges in. Clean any excess glue from the joints immediately.

Continue laying each row as described above. Note that unlike the floating installation method, longitudinal tongue and groove gluing (along the edge of each row) is not compulsory with this glue down method.

To prevent movement, tape flooring down every 3 completed rows across the face together using temporary-adhesive masking tape.

Every 2-3 hours and upon completion, roll the floorboard surface with a 100-150 lb (50-70 kg) roller to ensure all boards are flat and in perfect contact with the adhesive. Wrap the roller with cloth or foam pad to avoid scratches or dents on the floor surface.

Allow the finished floor to be free from load and heavy foot traffic for at least 24 hours after completion. The next day, remove all temporary spacing wedges and install all of the skirting/moldings, making sure that they are fixed onto the adjacent wall only, not the floor.

http://tamalpaishardwoodfloors.com
http://home.howstuffworks.com/hardwood-floor.htm

A paint sprayer is a wonderful thing when used properly. If you have a large painting project looming, and are not afraid to get a bit messy, this might be for you. Anyone can rent a paint sprayer from most local hardware or paint stores and with some instruction, get good results. Here are a few pointers for the serious do-it-yourselfer.

To start with, a sprayer can be very dangerous, in fact deadly if used improperly. When the spray comes out of the tip, it is usually under high pressure which will cut like a razor or produce a very nasty injection wound. When the paint or stain is injected into your bloodstream, it can be deadly if it reaches a critical organ like the heart, brain, etc.

Never set up or clean out the machine with a spray tip on the gun. First, remove the tip housing and lower the pressure to a minimum. Second, if your paint hose develops a leak, no matter how small, do not touch the hose or try to stop the pinhole leak with your hands. Go to the machine and open the bleeder valve to release pressure from the system, and then shut it down. If you try to stop this tiny stream of paint it will surely puncture your skin and cause the injection wound I just mentioned.

Once, on a job where I was spraying, a pinhole developed in the hose and while I did tell the helper not to touch anything, he did. He thought that he would be able to stop the stream with his thumb bad move. The thin stream of oil based paint injected his skin and went clear through his thumb, streaming out through the other side! We rushed him to the hospital and he laid there for over two weeks with his thumb laid wide open like a hot dog cut in half lengthwise. The nurses came in twice a day to literally scrub the raw meat so as to stop the flow of chemicals to his vital organs. Do I need to say more? Spend a little time with the rental person and make sure you know how to properly operate the sprayer before you take it home.

For the most part, there isnt much that you cant use a sprayer for. The main idea is to reduce the labor time for any given project. Sometimes it can be quicker to use conventional brush and roll methods rather than take the time needed to properly mask areas not to be painted. Youll have to survey the situation and make that determination. If spraying, you will need to gather a few items before beginning. You will need to cover anything that you dont want painted or over sprayed. Wear clothing that you can get paint on, and perhaps a spray hood from the paint store to cover your head. You will also want to purchase a respirator so that you dont breathe in any paint. Get some good drop cloths, rags, staples and staple gun, two inch tape, and perhaps some plastic to start.

Wrapping, as it is frequently called, in and of itself is quite a task on larger projects and is a bit of an art form for professional painters. You may need other more specialized sundries as well, but these will get you going. If you run into an unusual situation where these arent sufficient, go to your local paint store and explain your dilemma, they can help. When wrapping any item, keep in mind that the sprayed paint is under pressure, so keep you coverings tight so that the paint spray doesnt loosen your covering job. Staple plastic and drop cloths to wooden surfaces when possible, and then tape over the stapled edge to create a straight line. If you cant use staples at all, consider pre-taped plastic on a roll. This is available at the paint store and is handy for windows, cabinets, tubs and the like. In any event, make sure that your wrapping is not loose as the spray will cause it to flop wildly and eventually come off.

It is also helpful to note that when using tapes, there are a wide variety of sizes and styles. The white tapes are cheapest and have the strongest adhesives. When taping outside or in direct sunlight, you may consider using a blue or green tape. While these tapes can cost up to seven dollars per roll, they are designed to come off easily for up to a week in direct sunlight, which can be a huge problem if ignored. The sun seems to bake the adhesive onto the surface it protects, making removal very aggravating and slow. Once you have all of the necessary areas covered, its time to set up the machine and begin painting!

There are a couple things to remember before you begin. First, always use the lowest pressure possible to accomplish your task. Once the machine is set up and primed, begin in an inconspicuous spot, with very low pressure and raise the pressure slowly until the spray pattern is full and even, without lines. You should keep your spray gun about twelve to fourteen inches away from the surface and move with it so that distance and a 90 degree angle to the surface are maintained. You will need to overlap your spray pattern depending on the surface and its texture.

On exterior wood, you should always backbrush the paint into the wood for the first coat, which means that the spray pattern is not very important. You should apply plenty of paint, even to the point of it running. But on subsequent coats that wont be back brushed or rolled, your spray pattern and the amount of paint applied will be crucial. All I can say is to practice, and be prepared for mistakes.

If spraying inside, it is always a good idea to backroll the final coat of paint so that you can touch up the paint over time with the same size roller nap. Use a roller on a pole with a 3/8 inch nap for smooth walls or a 3/4 inch nap for textures. Roll from floor to ceiling in long strokes. If you dont do this, the sprayed finish will be shinier than any subsequent attempts to touch up with a roller, since the roller nap will leave a slight texture. Back rolling is best accomplished with the help of another, so that you can continue to spray and backroll simultaneously. Again, each job is different, so you may want to ask your paint supplier for more detailed instructions to fit your specific needs.

Whether or not you will be attempting this yourself, let me dispel the myth that I frequently hear in dealings with my clients. The truth is, it is ok to use a sprayer to apply paint to cedar shakes and other wooden surfaces. In fact, if a painter tells you otherwise, he probably doesnt have any experience with using a sprayer. You might be surprised how many contractors dont have that experience. The problem occurs when the sprayer is used improperly. As I mentioned earlier, when painting wooden surfaces or any other porous surface for that matter, the first or prime coat must be worked into the tiny cracks and crevices with a brush or roller. When back brushing is omitted, the paint will not penetrate as it should. As the underlying surface expands and contracts with the seasons and moisture, the paint will begin to lose adhesion, causing peeling of the paint. If this all seems a bit much for you to handle, dont worry, you are not alone. As I mentioned before, not even all painters can spray properly. If you do think that you might try this, just remember to take notes while getting your info on how to set up and use the machine. If you make a mistake, you can always paint over it, or clean up the mess. Spraying is absolutely high on the difficulty scale for do-it-yourself projects, so consider all of the suggestions above before starting, to determine if this is really for you to attempt, or if you would be better off hiring a professional.

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