Adhesive Tape

Velcro 3/4-Inch by 15-Feet Fastener Tape, Red Review

my daughter is a teacher and uses this on her bulletin board....it's great because the red matches the background color and she can change the pictures frequently using the velcro instead of push pins.

Velcro 3/4-Inch by 15-Feet Fastener Tape, Red Feature

• Press-on fastener
• For smooth surfaces such as painted wallboard, glass, metal, and most plastics
• 3/4-inches by 15-feet roll
• Sticks to plastic

Velcro 3/4-Inch by 15-Feet Fastener Tape, Red Overview

3/4"W x 15'L, Red Velcro Sticky Back Tape, Reel Package With Built-in Dispensers, Give Your Customers The Flexibility To Buy The Exact Product They Want In The Exact Length They Need, SR .59 Per Foot.

Velcro 3/4-Inch by 15-Feet Fastener Tape, Red Specifications

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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 07, 2009 15:10:03

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Scotch® Performance Masking Tape 2364 (24 Rolls) Review

Scotch® Performance Masking Tape 2364 (24 Rolls) Feature

• Strong, smooth crepe paper masking tape
• Good holding power in temperatures up to 300° F
• Clean removal
• Length (m): 55 Width (mm): 36

Scotch® Performance Masking Tape 2364 (24 Rolls) Overview

Scotch® Performance Masking Tape 2364

Scotch® Performance Masking Tape 2364 (24 Rolls) Specifications

Available at Amazon Check Price Now!

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 06, 2009 14:05:04

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

Depending on what kind of golfer you are and how well you want your clubs to match will depend on what kind of assembling equipment you need. Components are manufactured well enough so that even with very basic knowledge and skills, you can build a very nice looking and great performing set of golf clubs that you will be proud to use and show your friends for many years to come.

If you would like to build a set of clubs as inexpensively as possible and as easily as possible, you'll use steel shafts and clubheads that don't require a ferrule. The ferrule is that fancy piece of decorative plastic at the top of the hosel that blends the shape of the hosel into the shaft. Many clubheads have rounded hosels that don't require a ferrule. If the clubhead you desire uses a ferrule, then it's not too much additional work to add it. These instructions will familiarize you with the process so that you can decide whether this is an endeavor worth pursuing or not. If you decide it is for you and you'd like to move forward, get additional instruction from the golf club component company that you use to ensure that you are aware of anything else that they would suggest in addition to these instructions.

Basic Assembly Equipment

1. 2-part 5 minute Epoxy - Mixing surface and mixing stick.

2. Double sided grip tape.

3. Grip solvent - paint thinner works great.

4. Metal tubing cutter (found in hardware stores and used for cutting copper plumbing pipe) It squeezes down on the pipe and has a metal cutting wheel and as you turn it around and around as you tighten it down on the pipe, it eventually cuts the pipe.

5. Measuring tape.

6. Permanent Ink Marker.

7. Acetone (Used to remove any excess epoxy/adhesive - found in a paint store or hardware store)

Optional Equipment

1. Ferrules (pretty plastic finish pieces required for some clubheads)

2. Swing Weight Scale. Opinions about swingweight differ. Some say swingweighting is important while others are unconcerned. The most important part about swingweighting is that your golf clubs match as closely as possible so that they feel the same when you swing them. See notes toward the bottom regarding swingweighting.

3. Loft Lie guage and bender (For very specific golfers who want an exact loft lie angle for each club. Requires a great degree of knowledge to achieve the desired result correctly so that the heads aren't damaged and the loft/lie desired is maintained long term)

Golf Club Equipment.

This is the fun part where you get to select the clubheads, shafts and grips that you want for your very own personalized look.
Sellers of component golf equipment can help you select the right components to match your abilities and desired results. Considerations like:
grip -type (round,ribbed) -material (soft, cord, tour wrap) - core size (56,58,60)
shaft length-flex stiffness-torque-kickpoint etc.

Golf Club Assembly

Most of your time will be and should be spent in "accurately" cutting your shafts to length. Your shafts will have instructions on how to cut them to achieve the correct stiffness which typically means cutting some of the length off of the tip. The tip is the narrow end that fits into the clubhead hosel and the butt end is the wide end where you place the grip. Once the shafts have been cut for stiffness, then you cut length off from the butt end for each individual shafts length.

Cutting the shaft for stiffness

Example (Assuming shaft instructions require you to cut 1 inch off the tip for correct stiffness)

Measure 1 inch from the tip end and make a mark with permanent marker which is easily removed with Acetone. Measure Twice - Cut Once!! Place the tubing cutter over the shaft and tighten the cutter down onto the shaft with the cutter wheel placed exactly on top of the mark where you want the cut. Spin the tubing cutter around until it starts to get loose and if the cutter still hasn't cut through the tubing yet, tighten it down some more until the tubing is completely cut. (Note: During the first few turns of the tubing cutter, make sure that the cutting wheel stays exactly over the mark in the same place during each rotation and doesn't walk or move up or down the shaft inadvertently)

Cutting the shaft to length

Golf club shaft lengths have whats considered to be a standard length. When you purchase clubs from a store already assembled off the shelf, they are in standard lengths. If you are building your own clubs and you feel you need something other than standard length, you can do that easily when you cut the shafts to length. An important consideration for anyone thinking that a longer golf shaft will make it so you can hit the golfball farther. A longer shaft will increase the swing weight of the club and require more strength to swing it. The comparison is if you choke down on your driver, its easier to swing it when its shorter verses holding out on the end at full length. I experimented with this once and added a full inch over standard to my entire set. I did hit it farther by about 10 yards on average through my irons, but it affected my tempo and required much more strength. By around the 15th hole, I often found that I was unable to get the club through the impact area on time and starting slicing the golf ball so I cut the shafts shorter to only 1/4" inch over standard which is where I should be for my specific body dimensions anyway.

Measure and mark all of your shafts before cutting any of them and then lie them out side by side to make sure that they are all in a consistent stair step pattern. A 2 iron is 1/2" shorter than a 1 iron and so on until you get to a 9 iron. The 9 iron through Lob Wedge are all the same length.

Once you're sure you've got the lengths right, make the cuts. It's very helpful to label each shaft accordingly so they can be quickly matched up with the corresponding clubhead.

Adding the clubheads to the shafts

Placing the clubheads on the shafts (without ferrules)
Slide the golf shaft into the hosel and mark the depth on the shaft with a permanent marker that the shaft goes into the hosel so that you will know how far up the shaft to place the epoxy.
Thoroughly mix up some 2-part epoxy. Use a pencil to put a thin layer of epoxy down inside the full length of the clubhead hosel and put a thin layer of epoxy on the golf shaft up to the mark that you just made previously. (You don't want to puddle the epoxy excessively in the hosel as you will be adding additional weight to the clubhead which will make your swingweight different than other clubs that don't have the puddled adhesive in the head.) Lean the club against a wall to set while you do this for the rest of the clubs. Once the 5 minute epoxy has set after atleast 5-10 minutes, use a rag with some acetone to remove any excess epoxy from the shaft and clubhead.

Adding Grips

Place grip tape on the shaft.
Grip tape has adhesive on both sides. Double sided adhesive tape comes in narrow widths and wide widths. Depending on which tape you get determines the easiest way to place the tape on the shaft. The narrower tape may require you to wrap the tape in a spiral circular motion down the shaft. Try to get it spaced evenly so that it doesn't overlap or leave big gaps. If you get the wider tape, you can just place a long strip down the shaft a little longer than the length of the grip, and remove the backing and wrap it around the shaft. Place the grip tape on the shaft so that there is an extra ¼” of tape or so extending out beyond the butt end of the shaft. Squeeze that tape together and push it into the end of the golf shaft to seal the end of the golf shaft and prevent anything from getting into the golf shaft. Once the grip has been slid onto the shaft, any tape that protrudes beyond the grip can be easily trimmed with a razor blade or you can measure how far the grip extends down the shaft in advance and put a mark on the shaft and trim the tape a little shorter than the length of the grip before you put the grip on. As mentioned earlier regarding the diameter of the grip, if you need a little wider grip, you can put an extra wrap or two of tape on the shaft to enlarge the diameter of the grip.

Slide the grip on the shaft.
While covering the little hole in the end of the grip with a finger, put enough grip solvent into the grip so that it can coat all the inside walls of the grip. Put enough in so that while now covering the holes of the grip at both ends with your fingers that you can shake the grip and feel the solvent slosh around in the grip. Carefully dump/pour any excess solvent that is in the grip out over the entire surface of the grip tape on your golf club shaft. Now both the inside of the grip and the exterior surface of the grip tape should be coated with solvent.

Note: the grip solvent prevents the grip tape adhesive from setting up for a short period of time, so you will only have maybe 10 seconds or less to get the grip on and get it aligned before the adhesive sets and the grip cannot be moved any longer.

Now slide the grip onto the shaft. If your grip has grip alignment marks for your hands on the grip or a grip reminder ridge that runs down the backside of the grip, try to make sure the grip goes on as straight as possible in the first place so that you don’t have to twist the grip much once its on the shaft to get it aligned correctly. If you have a shaft vice, aligning the grip will be a little easier at this point however it’s not very hard to align the grip without the vice. Eyeball from the top of the grip down the shaft to make sure the entire grip is aligned with the face of the club.

Let the grips cure overnight before using them.

The first set of clubs you build will give you a sense of pride and satisfaction and you'll thoroughly enjoy using your personalized set of golf clubs on the course. I've built a few sets for myself now and my most recent set is graphite which is a little more difficult and requires more patience but if you want to know more about it, let me know.

Selecting the right golf club shaft.

Selecting the right golf club shaft is by far the most important aspect to consider when purchasing golf club components to build your set. Distance, accuracy and ball flight are all affected by the type of golf shaft that you select.

The most important factor in selecting any golf shaft is the stiffness. Golf Shaft stiffness generically ranges from the most flexible ladies shaft to the least flexible X-Stiff Shaft with Senior, Regular, Firm and Stiff in-between in that order.

Manufacturers use different methods to identify the flex of their shafts. For example, Royal Precision rates their Rifle series shafts from 2.0 to 8.0 offering sixty choices as opposed to the 6 mentioned above. This allows a more precise selection of flex to match the golfer's swing. A consideration to remember is that one manufacturer's "regular" flex rating may not be the same as the next manufacturer's "regular" flex rating.

To determine the flex of a shaft, the shaft's frequency needs to be measured. Frequency is the number of cycles per minute (CPM) or vibrations that the shaft has when the tip end is tweaked while the grip end of the shaft is firmly held at 5.25" from the grip end. A frequency analyzer is used to measure the shaft's CPM rating. A higher CPM measurement means it’s a stiffer shaft.

Usually using a club shaft that is too flexible will cause a tendency to hook the ball while using a shaft that is too stiff will cause a tendency to fade or slice the ball. A golfer wants the most flexible shaft that they can control which would provide the greatest distance.

The most popular materials used in shafts today are steel and graphite. Titanium shafts are available although they are not as popular. Steel and graphite have specific characteristics and advantages. Steel's molecular structure is uniform throughout the shaft. This structure allows manufacturers to produce shafts consistently which is the biggest benefit of steel. Steel shafts are also relatively inexpensive and heavier than graphite. Typical cost of a True Temper Dynamic Gold series steel shaft is $5-6 each with its weight around 125-128 grams and the True Temper TrueLite series can be as light as 89 grams.

Graphite is less consistent than steel due to its complicated manufacturing process. Graphite shafts are significantly lighter than steel typically weighing about 55-60 grams allowing design of longer clubs while maintaining swingweight. Graphite shafts are more expensive than steel ranging from $10-100 per shaft. Graphite is popular for it's vibration dampening, but recent advances in steel shafts such as Sims' Shock Relief, True Temper's Sensicore, and Ping's Cushin have greatly decreased the gap between steel and graphite.

Kick point also known as flex point refers to the specific point on a shaft where the shaft flexes primarily. Shafts are available with low, mid, or high kick points. A shaft designed with a low kick point is generally easier to control and provides a higher ball flight but with less distance and typically appeal to higher handicap golfers. A shaft with a mid kick point provides a combination of power and accuracy with a medium ball flight. A shaft designed with a high kick point usually is more difficult to control and provides a lower ball flight but with more distance which is preferred by lower handicap golfers.

Torque refers to the minor twisting movement of the shaft that occurs at impact. Torque is measured in degrees. The higher the torque rating the more the twist at impact and thus slightly less control of the shot. The lower the torque rating, the less twist at impact and slightly more control of the shot. Graphite shafts usually have a wider range of torque than do steel shafts making torque a larger consideration when purchasing them.

Get educated prior to selecting the most important component of your golf equipment. Assess the benefits of steel vs. graphite with respect to your needs. Kick point and torque are characteristics to be considered although to a lesser degree than flex and shaft material. The best way to get properly fitted for shafts is to receive assistance from an accredited clubmaking company. Try and test as many different flexes as possible prior to making a selection.

A note about club swingweighting

A golf club’s swingweight can be measured using a swingweight scale. Also, if you do a swingweight scale search online (leaderboard.com has one), you can measure the total weight of your club and also see where along the shaft your golf club balances and measure the distance from the grip end of the club to the balance point and input those two sums into the online calculator which will then tell you what your club’s swingweight is.

To describe the feel of swingweight in your hands, the heavier the clubhead feels and the lighter the grip feels, the higher the swingweight. If the clubhead feels light and the grip feels heavier, then it is a lighter swingweight.

Men's clubs are usually swingweighted in the low "D" range. Swingweights measure in letters A-G and numbers 0-10. Women's clubs are usually in the low to mid "C" range. The important thing to remember about swingweight is each golf club within a set should have the same swingweight. If you like a D2 weight, then your entire set should be D2. Swingweight can affect your swing greatly and a club swingweighted too lightly for your physical ability will feel whippy and somewhat uncontrollable while a club that is too heavily swingweighted will feel burdensome and make it difficult to achieve proper tempo.

The weight of a golf club's head, shaft, and grip are all part of determining the club's swingweight. Other equally important factors include the weight and balance point of the shaft and the finished club's length.

One swingweight point is equal to approximately 2 grams in the clubhead. A standard grip (51 grams) accounts for about 9-10 swingweight points at the butt end of the club. If you reduce the weight in the grip end of a club by 4 grams, the resulting swingweight will increase by 1 swingweight point. If you shorten a club by 1/2", the swingweight will decrease by about 3 swingweight points. On the other hand, if you lengthen a club by 1/2" the swingweight will increase by about 3 swingweight points. Another method to increase swingweight is to add lead tape to the clubhead. A 1/2" wide strip of lead tape approximately 4 1/2" long weighs about 2 grams and will add 1 swingweight point to the club. Keep in mind that the club's "total weight" may also be altered while altering the club's swingweight .

If you have access to a set of clubs that feels good for you, you can find out what their swing weight is as a starting point prior to building your own set so you know what combination of grip, clubhead, and shaft to use to achieve the swingweight you desire. Golf club building companies can assist you in choosing the correct combination of components. If you want to alter your swingweight and don't want to do it yourself, a golf club maker can alter your clubs to meet your specific requirements. My site http://www.AGameGolfClubs.com has some great companies as resources.

Find Great Resources at http://www.AGameGolfClubs.com
http://www.AGameGolfInstruction.com
http://www.AAAGolfCourse.com

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

There are a few reasons that carbon fiber has taken off in the past few years. It is a lightweight, rigid, visually appealing material. It has a unique textured look and a smooth finish. It is surprisingly strong, and doesn't flex much.

Take carbon fiber hoods for example. A lot of tuners like to add a carbon fiber hood on their cars. Opposed to the steel factory hoods, these carbon fiber hoods can reduce the weight of the vehicle by as much as 40 or 50 pounds on some applications. This modification, when added to other weight reducing modifications, can slightly decrease 0-60 times and marginally improves handling and acceleration.

The other reason is the cool textured looking finish. Add a few carbon fiber touches as a theme throughout the vehicle and this can score some major style points.

These carbon fiber hoods are fairly expensive for their weight reducing capabilities, but add a lot of style for the money. Once you have purchased the hood you want, it's time to get it installed. You may need a hand removing the factory hood due to its weight, but once it is removed, you should be able to handle the much lighter carbon fiber hood.

The installation is fairly easy, so here is a quick guide to help you get it installed.

Start your installation by removing the windshield washer jets for the factory hood. Disconnect the tubing that runs to them by unclipping or unscrewing them. If there is a light attached to the hood, go ahead and remove it, as you may want to reuse it on the new hood.

With these removed, and with some help on the other side, prop the hood up with the hood prop if applicable. Remove the 4 bolts holding the hood to the hinges. If your hood has gas shocks, remove them before removing the hinge bolts. Be careful to support the weight of the hood when removing the hinge bolts to reduce the risk of damaging the fenders or the windshield. With the hinges and gas shocks unbolted, this will free up the heavy factory hood. Carefully remove it from the hinges by pulling it away from the windshield and set it aside.

Set the new carbon fiber hood in place. It will be significantly lighter than the factory steel hood. Line up the bolts on the hinges and tighten them down. Reattach the gas shocks if applicable, or set the hood prop in place. Reattach your windshield washer jets if your hood permits, and run the lines on the underside. If you saved your light and want to reattach it, you can do so at this point. it can be attached using some 3M adhesive double sided tape, or you can carefully screw it in place, making sure to use screws small enough to not penetrate the top of the hood.

Close the hood and check for alignment. If you need to adjust the alignment, lift the hood and loosen the hinge bolts slightly, just to where you can make small adjustments. Lower the hood and make any adjustments and re-tighten the bolts. This should complete your carbon fiber hood installation.

If you need any support or advice for your carbon fiber hood installation, visit the Carbon Fiber Hoods Blog.

Majestic Modifications is the complete car customization concept, specializing in car accessories, cold air intakes and performance upgrades, body kits and exterior accessories, glow gauges and interior accessories, wheels and tires, mobile video, car audio and electronics.

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

Fisherbrand Self-Adhesive Label Tape; 60 yd. (55m) Roll; 1 in. (25mm) Review

Fisherbrand Self-Adhesive Label Tape; 60 yd. (55m) Roll; 1 in. (25mm) Feature

Fisherbrand Self-Adhesive Label Tape; 60 yd. (55m) Roll; 1 in. (25mm) Overview

Tape, Label; Fisherbrand; Self-adhesive; Sticks to most surfaces; For use in autoclave, refrigerator/freezer, sterilizer, incubator; Resists oil, water, acid; White; 1 in. x 60 yd. (2.5cm x 55m)

Fisherbrand Self-Adhesive Label Tape; 60 yd. (55m) Roll; 1 in. (25mm) Specifications

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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 02, 2009 17:30:04

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Intertape PG5 127 18mmx55m Natural Ipg Masking Tape Review

Intertape PG5 127 18mmx55m Natural Ipg Masking Tape Feature

• Package Quantity: (1) 60 Yard Roll
• Masking Tape Type: Masking Tape
• Masking Tape Style: High Temperature Masking Tape
• Color: Tan
• Width (Inch): 3/4
• Width (mm): 18mm
• Length (Yards) (Yards): 60
• Length Meter: 55
• Thickness (mil): 6.7
• Tensile Strength (Pounds): 28

Intertape PG5 127 18mmx55m Natural Ipg Masking Tape Overview

Specialty Painter's Masking Tape Masking Tape Type: Masking Tape Masking Tape Style: High Temperature Masking Tape Color: Tan Width: 3/4, 18 mm Length (Yards): 60 Length Meter: 55 Tensile Strength: 28

Intertape PG5 127 18mmx55m Natural Ipg Masking Tape Specifications

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Scotch DBLSD 1/2"-VELLUM ADHESIVE TAPE Review

Scotch DBLSD 1/2"-VELLUM ADHESIVE TAPE Feature

Scotch DBLSD 1/2"-VELLUM ADHESIVE TAPE Overview

3M COMPANY-The same 3M state-of-the-art technology used by professional graphic artists and framers is now available! Photo safe and disappears when used on most vellum applications. Great for memory book pages invitations envelopes greeting cards paper crafts and more.Low Monthly Payment. Click here to see what your monthly payment would be with your Sears card.

Scotch DBLSD 1/2"-VELLUM ADHESIVE TAPE Specifications

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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Nov 30, 2009 07:35:04

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As a new abode in the outdoors for a period of time, a campsite must have similar protection for health and safety as our own homes. Such are basic sanitary amenities for the disposal of wastes such as garbage, waste water, and body wastes.

What are the Do's and Don'ts when it comes to Camp Sanitation and Safety?

These amenities are available in public camping areas. When camping in other places, there must be a plan for waste disposal. The location should be near the fire but not in places where campers usually walk.

How do we eliminate camping garbage?

Wrappings such as paper and plastics should be burned. Nowadays, non-burnable foil or plastic are used over paper packaging. That is why it is best to get in the habit of carrying all the garbage out.

Other garbage that won't be burned must be properly eliminated. Empty tin cans and glass jars should be placed on a plastic bag and be carried in the pack to the trash can. Garbage or other kitchen wastes should never be buried for animals will dig them up.

It is imperative to properly store and get rid of trash and garbage in camp for not doing so will attract pests such as rodents, insects, and other wild animals. Garbage must be taken at least 90 feet away from where you are camping and cooking.

How do we dispose body wastes?

Body waste must be disposed of in a latrine. Organized camping sites mostly have these conveniences. However, when camping in the backwoods or on the wilderness, latrine is to be dug manually.

Place latrine on a secluded area far from the camp site and from the water supply for at least 300 meters or more. It should never be located uphill from the water source for heavy rainfall may cause its contamination.

Over night camping latrines for several persons may be a hole of about 46 centimeters deep and 30 centimeters across. Paddles should be made after every use of the latrine. Cover the hole with dirt before leaving the camping area. Disguise the site by scattering leaves and grasses on top of it.

How do we secure safe drinking water?

Drinking water should be secured for safety. Areas with good water are located in the federal, provincial, and state campsites. When in doubt, it is better to boil water for three minutes to make sure that the water is safe. It would taste even better if poured from one container to another for several times.

Tablets for water-purification may be purchased from camp-equipment suppliers and drug stores. Check for its manufacture date, and follow the directions that go along with its package.
Camping First Aid

Wise campers should know about first aid in treating common injuries such as:

• Cuts
• Blisters
• Sunburns
• Burns
• insect bites
• and scratches

The following supplies are needed:

• adhesive bandages
• adhesive tape
• needles
• a roll of sterile gauze
• sterile compresses
• a small bottle of antiseptic
• a small tube of burn ointment
• and insect repellant

It is wise to leave the camp site clean. As a matter of fact good campers leave the location as if no one has ever camped there. Fireplaces should be cleaned out. All holes that have been dug should be filled out. For the soil not to be washed out when it rains, leaves should be scattered back on the ground.

Partingtons is one of the UK's top companies for camping and caravan holidays with holiday homess across the North of England.

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Most of the handmade card making supplies mentioned here,you probably already have, either on hand or around the house. Don't run out to the store and buy them before looking around...

I'm sure you'll find card making supplies that you can use to create your very own creative cards...

Below are card making supplies I've listed that most people use to create cards...

Paper

Discover card making paper supplies.

Different types of paper you can use to be creative...

You can walk into any craft store and see that they have big varieties of all sorts of paper, from plain to glitter to decorative to extra thin rice paper. It's an endless choice...

I sometimes can't resist the temptation of buying all these different types of paper, but in the end they intend to be costly! You figure they range from 59 cents to 1.99 per single sheet! That's crazy!

I like to be budget minded and get more for what I am spending. It's good to do bargain with different craft stores before making a purchase. But some of us, have to go out of our way to do so!...

Tip: Use what you have and wait for sales and discounts...

Card making paper supplies can be bought in bulk, stocks and kits. Sometimes we see the kits and we only want certain designs or textures. Then we turn to individual paper and you end up spending $20 for 20 sheets when you can spend $20 and get 200 sheets.

I learned that when you buy it by the pack you not only save, you find the use of all the other creative designs for future cards!

Tip: Always keep your scraps. They come in handy for decorative punches, collages and even your envelopes! Use your scraps to decorate your envelopes...So you'll never waste or throw away paper!

After awhile paper can be costly, so try to make every use of it, by recycling them and reusing them for other projects!

Purchasing card making paper supplies...

Card Stocks

They are more ridged than paper. They can be glossy, regular mats or adhesive mats, textured or glittered. You can buy them already cut or as a whole sheet. They offer card stocks by dark colors, pastel or by themes, school, baby and so fort and range from different sizes

Card Kits

Card kits are pre-folded card stocks. Same as basic blank cards. They come with matching envelopes.

Some Craft stores also offer kits with decorative paper and die-cuts for a flat price ranging from 3.99 to 5.99! These are good for gifts, beginners or even kids!

Card making paper supplies are everywhere...Get them at any craft stores near you or here online...

There are many creative projects you can create using different types of paper...

I hope you found this site helpful for your creative card ideas!

Remember, Many trees are being cut down to help us create our creations! Please Recycle!

Envelopes

Create homemade envelopes that match your creative cards... Instead of giving standard size envelopes that are plain. Why not use your left over scraps to decorate it... Turn your envelopes into a work of art!

Tip: If you are mailing your creative cards, be sure not to decorate over the places where we would write the address to and from and where the postal stamp goes. Be sure to weigh it before mailing it out as the postage may vary!

One day I had left over scraps from creating a birthday card. I said to myself, I don't want the card to be very nice and the envelope will look very plain. So I decided to take all the scraps I had left over from that one birthday card and created my very own unique envelope!

You can do almost anything with your envelope, by using multiple handmade card making supplies.

Cutting Mat / Craft Knifes / Scissors / Trimmers

When creating cards, good cutting tools are important. Here are some basic card making tools you'll need to get a neat professional look.

Cutting - Mat

Cutting Mats come in various sizes and are available at any craft stores. Choose one that is big enough for cutting big sized paper. I have a 23inches x 23inches blue mat with measurement squares that I have placed on my work table. It's a perfect size!

Tip: You might consider purchasing a smaller one for travel or smaller pieces of paper

Craft Knife / Scissors

Craft knifes and scissors is a must for card cutting tools. Many crafters like myself like to use X-Acto craft knifes. It is great for detailed paper cutting or to cut big sheets of paper

For those who have difficulty handling sharp knifes, I would advise that you use an X-Acto knife that is safer than a surgical scalpel.

Tip: I found out that many crafters go to local medical suppliers and purchase KAI no. 3 surgical knife and blades, that intend to last quite some time

Scissors is another type of cutting tool that vary in fancy designs. It is use for basically all cutting purposes. Use a big pair for cutting big sheets and use a small sharp one for cutting small, detailed pieces of work...

Important: Please keep all sharp objects away from children!

Tip: If you don't have any caps for your knifes use bottle corks. It will prevent any type of incident

Paper Trimmers / paper Cutters

A paper cutter is another one of my daily cutting tools. It is good for cutting photos, precision cutting and different sizes of paper. I use it to pre-cut big sheets of paper to direct sizes for all my card making.

I hope you find the right cutting tools you need to make neat professional cuts for all your creative cards!

Adhesives / Tapes / Glue sticks

Adhesives, tape and glue sticks are basic handmade card making supplies needed for most creative card projects. Whether you do a collage or just a simple creative photo card...More Info

Finding the right card making glue and adhesives is important. You want your creative cards to last as long as possible and with the right glue and adhesives, you will help ensure that!

Here is a guide to help you choose the right card making glue and adhesives that you can find in any craft store.

Understand the differences between types of glues, tapes and spray adhesives...I did not list any particular brand to use as everyone prefer different types.

Use this guide to experiment your own brand of one and use it to your budget needs and one that fits your type of project!

Let's begin...

Double-sided Adhesive Tape

When we here tape most of us think Scotch tape. Double sided adhesive tape is great for photos and sticking paper to paper.

Many scrap bookers and myself like to use this type of tape. It can be costly. I prefer not to use to many double sided tape for card making. Only when creating creative photo cards.

Tip: Scotch tape can be used for all creative card making, if you prefer to use single sided tape!

Glue Sticks

Glue sticks are CHEAP and easy to use. It various in size that range from glue stick pens to wide dispenser type of glue sticks. There are also colored glue sticks that help, especially when working with kids.

I personally don't like to use glues sticks when creating cards because it's not permanent. It does not stick as well, neither does It bond very securely. I prefer, you use other types of card making glues and adhesives. But this is Great for kids!

Hot Glue

Hot glue comes in the form of solid sticks of glue that are put through a glue gun to be heated and used. I use hot glue guns for all my card making crafts. It is great for embellishments ( like buttons & flowers, etc...) and I save money comparing to buying tape...

Glue guns are relatively cheap, you could get a glue gun and glue sticks at most craft stores from $3 - $10. Glue sticks usually comes in packages of 25 -100 for a few more dollars.

The glue will create spider like strings, but don't worry it can be easily rubbed off. They also offer glitter glue sticks that can be used with your hot glue gun, otherwise it's clear...

Rubber Cement

Rubber cement is thick and creamy glue that dries clear. It can form either a permanent or temporary bond depending on how it is applied

It comes in a dark brown jar and a cap with a attached brush applicator. It can be messy and is ideal for all paper crafting. I personally don't use it for any creative cards as I've always been unlucky with it sticking permanently. Also the smell can be overwhelming after an extended period of time

Self Adhesive Foam Mounting Squares or Circles

Self adhesive foam are usually made of thick foam and are sticky on both sides. They come in various sizes. I don't use any of these!

TIP:

For budget minded people: I buy regular foamies that are 2mm thick and cost me only .49 cents! For a sheet sized at 9 x 12. I cut them to however size or shape I need it, then I add some glue from my glue gun and it's good to go! I buy 2 sheets of white or black and it lasts me for est. 30 cards

It's great for 3-d effects and to make anything you want to pop! You can stack it on top of each other for additional height. Also great for lettering.

Spray Adhesive

Spray adhesive can be used for paper, photos even fabric. I've never used spray adhesive for any of my creative cards because I feel it is better to use it for larger projects such as posters, large photos, or creative boxes.

I have seen it done by other card lovers! And it turned out just fine. Hopefully I'll get to feature a card using spray adhesive. So check back for that link and I can share all about it with you!

Tacky glue

Tacky glue is one of many card making glue used to create cards. It is durable then regular Elmer's glue. It dries clear and creates a long lasting bond. Make sure to read the label to see what type of materials it is best used with.

Tip: If you are in a rush or hurry to get a card done. Do not use tacky glue. It takes a long process to dry and recommend it dry over night.

I don't like to use it on my cards because when it dries, you can see the creation of the glue right through the paper.

Glue pens

Glue pens are great for precision gluing. It works well with glitter and for more detailed designs.

Glue Dots / Glue Roller

There are many different sizes of glue dots and many varieties of glue rollers. They are really great because they are not messy and are really sticky. I don't like to use them because they become very costly. But it's a great expensive glue for your creative card creations!

UHU Glue

UHU glue comes in both tube and stick. Many prefer to use this as their brand of one because it sticks better than others. All access glue can be rubbed off after it dries, using a clean pencil eraser. I've never tried it, but I've read very great reviews about it!

Ink and Ink pads

Ink and inkpads are mainly used for all rubber stamping and scrap booking purposes.

Now you can create different techniques just by knowing what type of ink and inkpads work best for you!

Use this guide to help you decide what type you should use best with your type of projects...

When I first started I used basic colors. I suggest for beginners, you might just like to use the following colors also:

* Black

* White

* Green

* Red

* And Blue

Below are 6 types of ink I am familiar with using...

Versa Color Ultimate Pigment Ink is a great cheap choice. It works really well and I like to use it for many of my creative cards.

Studio G Acid Free Pigment Ink can always be found on sale. I bought these for a $1 and it works great with little design stamps. When times are hard this is the way to go for the cheapest inkpads

Versa Mark Watermark Stamp pad is a must own. I use this type of inkpad for all of my rubber stamping creations. With it you can create very cool looking watermarks on both cards and envelopes.

Brilliance Pigment Inkpad creates a unique look of stamped images. I hardly use this type of ink. But are often used by many card lovers.

Stazon Inkpads are solvent inkpads and will definitely stain the rubber. It can be used for any surface like stamping on plastic.

Tip: Use baby wipes to clean all your stamps.

You might also like Memories Acid Free Dye Ink pads. This type of ink pad is made especially for Hero Arts Shadow Stamps. I like to use soft vanilla and soft leaf. I don't recommend the use for gold and silver because the finished look, intend to be awful. You can decide!

Decorative Punches

I hardly use any decorative card punches, but I know many creative card lovers that do and they love it!

Some have such intricate designs that many just love to use it to create handmade cards.

When you first begin making homemade cards, you will just have to get a few. I personally have never bought any because they just cost too expensive.

But these decorative designs can last you a lifetime and once you start to use them you'll notice their so easy to use and fun to create designable cards with!

Here are some of the basic patterns you might like:

* Corner punches or corner rounder. There great to use if you like to round off your corners. I like to use them with photos.

* Basic Shape punches. Squares, diamonds, circles, triangles, rectangles, hearts etc... They also vary in size.

* Long reach punches. Allows youto punch deeper into the inside of a card or any craft project.

* Leaves and flowers: If you love floral designs. They have a great selection on leaves and flowers that you can use for any garden or floral card ideas you have in mind

* Punch Aid. This is a great tool especially for those that love to punch a lot. I have a friend who owns one and she loves this tool. It's one of her favorites.

Card Making Embellishments

Use this guide below to see some of the many creative card making embellishments you can use on your creative cards...

There are many things we would like to consider using on our cards. Here are some card making embellishments that you can use to add glamor, and 3-d effects to your card creations.

Many of these embellishments are like stickers, eyelets, tassels, glitter, and many more.

Creative Card Making Embellishments:

* Eyelets: There are many ways you can use eyelets. It is great for attaching clear plastic, vellum, and tags to any homemade card. You can use it for your hole punches in your card and weave wire through it.

* Brads: They are similar to eyelets but brads don't have a hole through them. There also great for attachments and tags. Some come in decorated designs like flowers, buttons and snowflakes. They also come in color coordinate with seasons.

* Buttons: Before throwing out any loose buttons. Keep them. They make great card embellishments for any card. I used them in a creative Christmas card idea, and strung them on the tree as ornaments. So don't throw them out.

* Alphabet Beads: You can string names, words or sayings for example... "L-O-V-E" or "B-A-B-Y", birthday, wedding or even personal names.

More creative card making embellishments...

* Fibers: Look for any fibers you might have laying around or just so happen to come across. They are great for hanging tags, lining envelopes, stringing letters like your alphabet beads and creating bows.

* Metallic Threads: They come in many different colors and are great for creating creative tassels. You can also use them to create embroidery cards.

* Ribbons: I love to use ribbons to line my envelopes with or make bows. You can attach ribbons to any of your creative homemade cards.

Tip: You can find many card embellishments to use, like in your closets, drawers, storage bins. Remember to look before you throw away everything. Even tell friends and family they might have some things you could recycle and use for your card making embellishments.

Rubber Stamping

All about rubber stamping supplies.

Below are some of the most common creative rubber stamping supplies and tools we've either used or are going to use when creating creative cards.

Rubber stamps comes in many variety ways: Clear stamps, wood stamps, felt stamps and even eraser pads that you can create stamps out of.

I personally don't like to use stamps as much. I feel that stamps can only be used in so many ways and they only have so many designs before many will be using the same stamps.

Although rubber stamping can become addictive when you start creating creative cards. You'll want to own every design out there and every image for every occasion.

Creative rubber stamping supplies come in shapes, images, alphabets and can be worked with for many different creative card ideas.

Here are techniques you can use with all your rubber stamps:

You can do:

* Embossing

* Wrapping paper

* Water Marking

* Simple stamping

* Decorating envelopes

* Backgrounds

* And many more!

Here are some of the basic creative rubber stamping supplies that will do with any card making.

Remember, you do not need all of them some can even be substitute with items around the house.

* Clear Stamps: Clear stamps can in deed be costly. Most of them don't even come with clear blocks for you to put your stamp on and create clear images. So before buying clear stamps think of its costly price.

* Wooded Stamps: They are the most common stamps that has been around for many years. Their cheap and some come with out wooded blocks, but that is okay because some don't need them. They have a wide range of variety selections to choose from. This is where you would like to start. Here is a guide on recommended ink and ink pads.

* Roller Stamps: I like to call them roller stamps, because they roll out beautiful borders on your cards. They are great for creating borders on tags, cards and envelopes.

Tip: Use baby wipes to clean all your rubber stamps. Rinse them and leave it to dry. Don't buy expensive rubber stamp cleaners as they do not work as good as baby wipes. It gets it clean!

Creative Rubber stamping Tools...

* Heat Gun: The Milwaukee heat gun is one of the most favorable heat gun used for embossing. It is inexpensive and it does the job well. I've known of people who actually use hot plates which can be sufficient, but I wouldn't want to take the chance of burning any cards.

* Brayer: They brayer is very useful when creating creative cards. It is create for creating background on any card or envelope or any creative project you have in mind. Roll it on any multicolor ink pad, get it evenly on the rubber and roll away! You probably would want to include this tool on your creative rubber stamping supplies list if you do not own one yet.

* Embossing Markers: You can apply them directly to your rubber stamps using different colors for the image. Let them dry and then add your embossing powder on them. Then use them and apply them to your cards. I've learned that clear embossing powder works best!

Tip: Be sure to store your markers in a cool place to avoid drying out.

Today there are many rubber stamping companies with their own in house artist that design such images. Check out all the different companies and see which type of rubber stamps will work best for you.

Once you make an investment in stamps there are many enjoyable projects you can do with them and they will last you a very long time.

I hope all these handmade card making tools were helpful to you!. Don't think you have to go out of your way to purchase all of this. Start small and once you get into doing your very own favorite hobby rather it is card making or scrapbooking, slowly you'll start to collect many of these supplies. And before you know it you'll have quite a collection! Have fun and enjoy creating creative crafts.

Aloha,
Come check me out for more Ezine articles, creative card ideas, amazing craft supplies and many more goodies at http://www.808-creative-cards.com

Mahalo,
Keshia Fernandez

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

1. Accidents and medical emergencies in the home happen frequently. Maybe more frequently than we realize.

Statistics show a fatal injury occurs every 18 minutes in homes across America and every 4 seconds a disabling injury could occur. Accidents occur from falls, fire, burns, choking and poisoning.

2. Every home should have at least one first Aid Kit that is well stocked and readily available.

First Aid Kits are used most often for minor injuries such as cuts, sunburns or bites. Having a well stocked First Aid Kit available can save someone's life in a serious accident.

3. A First Aid Kit won't be any good to you if you don't know how to use it.

Make sure you have a guide in your kit from a reliable source. It should have the latest medical advice and be easy to understand, particularly under stress.

4. There are 5 categories that are imperative in your First Aid Kit

5. Instruments

Pointed tweezers for removing splinters

Disposable latex or non latex gloves

Small rounded-tipped scissors for cutting tape, clothes or bandages

Breathing Barrier for performing CPR

Thermometer-either digital or mercury

Ice Bag

Eye Patches

Oral medicine syringe

Bandages that are good quality. A variety of all sizes to dress a variety of wounds

One dozen individually wrapped sterile gauze pads 2" X 2"

Six non-stick gauze bandages

Six individually wrapped sterile gauze pads 4" X 4"

One roll 2" gauze bandage

One roll 5" gauze bandage

Elastic bandages

Triangular Bandages

Adhesive Tape

6. Antiseptics

Antiseptics such as Hydrogen Peroxide to kill germs.
Antibacterial cream or ointment . This is good for cuts ,scrapes and insect bites.

7. Medicines

Over the counter medicines such as antihistamine
cough suppressant
aspirin
syrup of ipecac in case someone ingests poison. This should only be used after calling the Poison Control Center first.

8. Keeping your First Aid Kit Updated

Your First Aid Kit should be checked once a year, possibly the same day you check your smoke detectors, to be sure it is fully stocked and nothing has expired. Make sure you always make a note of anything you use out of your Kit so it can easily be replaced.

9. Storing your First Aid Kit

Make sure you store your First Aid Kit in a tote bag or plastic container that will keep your kit clean and dry and easily accessible in your home. It is recommended to have one on each floor in your home and workshop. Make sure everyone in your home knows where they are and how to use it. It could save your families life.

Val and Robin Shortt are experienced campers and own three outdoor websites For more tips like these and to register for their Free newsletter visit: Good Night Camping Equipment

Minn Kota Trolling Motors