Scotch(R) Box Sealing Tape 311 Clear, 72 mm x 100 m [PRICE is per ROLL]

Scotch(R) Box Sealing Tape 311 Clear, 72 mm x 100 m [PRICE is per ROLL] Review




Scotch(R) Box Sealing Tape 311 Clear, 72 mm x 100 m [PRICE is per ROLL] Feature


  • Color: Clear
  • Width: 72 MM
  • Length: 100 M
  • Model: 311
  • Sale Unit: ROLL

Scotch(R) Box Sealing Tape 311 Clear, 72 mm x 100 m [PRICE is per ROLL] Overview


Good aging in sunlight and fluorescent light. Holds through wide temperature swings, specifically in colder and damper environments. Biaxially oriented polypropylene backing is easy to handle and dispense. Resists abrasion, moisture, chemicals, and scuffing. Conforms around edges and over rough surfaces for a tight seal. Good edge tear and split resistance. Standard width: 48 mm

Scotch(R) Box Sealing Tape 311 Clear, 72 mm x 100 m [PRICE is per ROLL] Specifications



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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 31, 2009 01:10:04

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How To Make A Scrapbook

If you are new to crafting and wanting to find out how to make a scrapbook then this article has been written especially for you. Scrapbooking has become increasing popular in the last decade and is a way of recording and preserving keepsakes and pictures that can be enjoyed by generation after generation.

How to make a scrapbook - Equipment needed.

The scrapbook - The most important part is the scrapbook itself. Try to find a book that is top loading as this will stop your pages from falling out when being stored upright. Scrapbooks come is a huge range of styles and themes.

Paper and card stock - acid and lignin free cardstock, paper, vellum etc

Adhesive - make sure that any adhesive used is photo safe. There are many different types of adhesive including double sided tape, sticky dots and spray glue.

Cutting Materials - a craft knife is essential and a really sharp pair of scissors. You may decide to invest in a paper trimmer however you can use your craft knife and metal edge ruler to cut straight lines.

How to make a scrapbook - Embellishments

Embellishments are used to decorate scrapbook page layouts and come in many different forms including stickers, eyelets, brads, ribbon, buttons, wire, charms, stamps and rub ons. You can also purchase machines that will cut shapes so that you can create your own embellishments.

How to make a scrapbook - Preparation

To begin making your scrapbook you firstly need to decide on the theme. You can create scrapbook page layouts for all kinds of events such as weddings, birthdays, parties, pets and holidays.

How to make a scrapbook - Process

Begin by selecting the pictures you wish to place on your scrapbook page layout. Choose one picture to be the focal point of the page and use the colors in the picture to determine the color scheme of the whole page.

Decide what journaling you are going to add and mount the pictures on coordinating paper. Lay out your scrapbook page layout before fixing it together permanently. Once you are happy with the design fix the pictures to the page using your adhesive.

Once the wording and pictures are in place you can then decorate the page using brads, ribbon, paper, eyelets and rub ons.

One of the most important things to remember when creating scrapbook page layouts is not to over do them, remember they will need to be placed into a thin plastic sleeve so attaching bulky embellishments simply wont work and will look unsightly in your scrapbook.

And lastly and most importantly always use products that are acid and lignin free, using anything else will cause your pages to deteriorate over time.




Vicki Churchill writes for a site that specializes in Scrapbook Ideas. providing you with excellent tips and ideas on How To Make A Scrapbook She also specializes in Card Making.

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3M 00021200042751 361 2"x60yds White Glass Cloth Tape

3M 00021200042751 361 2"x60yds White Glass Cloth Tape Review




3M 00021200042751 361 2"x60yds White Glass Cloth Tape Feature


  • Package Quantity: (1) 60 Yard Roll
  • Type: Glass Cloth Tape
  • Width (Inch): 2
  • Color: White
  • Length (Yards) (Yards): 60
  • Thickness (mil): 7.5
  • Tape Number: 361

3M 00021200042751 361 2"x60yds White Glass Cloth Tape Overview


Glass Cloth Tapes Type: Glass Cloth Tape Width: 2 Color: White Length (Yards): 60

3M 00021200042751 361 2"x60yds White Glass Cloth Tape Specifications



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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 27, 2009 20:45:03

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Duct Tape

Search through any tool kit, and a common item found is duct tape. This strong, multi-purpose adhesive tape, usually measuring 1.88 inches wide, has evolved from its original purpose of joining together broken equipments. It is now a much sought-after material for creating novelty articles and fashion items, including a classy tuxedo. Duct tape is available in a wide range of colors. Transparent tapes are also available. Duct tape is often called ‘the ultimate material’ owing to its strength and versatility.

Duct tape was developed during the Second World War as a waterproof tape for sealing ammunition cases. It was called “duck tape” because of its water resistance quality. The army gradually widened its usage by utilizing it for fixing military equipments, guns, vehicles and even parts of aircrafts. The housing boom following the war saw duct tape being used for a variety of repair work. An important use of the tape was fixing air conditioning and heating ducts. This earned the tape its present name, duct tape.

Duct tape’s strength and versatility were famously displayed during the Apollo 13 mission of 1970. Following an explosion, the spacecraft’s lunar module had to be used as a lifeboat for saving the onboard astronauts. The spacecraft’s carbon dioxide filters had to be modified to fit round the lunar module’s receptacles. A workaround solution was made using duct tape and other materials available on board.

Although duct tape’s strength lies in its ability to hold together materials and broken parts, creative people have found a variety of other uses. Craftsmen and designers use duct tape to create a range of decorative objects and accessories such as handbags, wallets, purses, belts and even formal wear. There are even exclusive duct tape handbags belonging to famous fashion labels. Perhaps the most diverse use was reported in a medical paper published in October 15, 2002, that states that the duct tape is effective in treating warts.




Duct Tape provides detailed information on Duct Tape, Duct Tape Crafts, Duct Tape Wallets, Duct Tape Fashion and more. Duct Tape is affiliated with Electrician Jobs .

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Hook & Loop, Gripper Strip, Sew On-Loop, 1" Knitted Nylon Base, White 25' Length

Hook & Loop, Gripper Strip, Sew On-Loop, 1" Knitted Nylon Base, White 25' Length Review




Hook & Loop, Gripper Strip, Sew On-Loop, 1" Knitted Nylon Base, White 25' Length Feature



Hook & Loop, Gripper Strip, Sew On-Loop, 1" Knitted Nylon Base, White 25' Length Overview


In the Hook and Loop fastening field, Gripper Strip is a strong, lightweight and versatile development, available in the familiar Sew-On style, and with Pressure Sensitive backing for use on surfaces that cannot be sewn.

Hook & Loop, Gripper Strip, Sew On-Loop, 1" Knitted Nylon Base, White 25' Length Specifications



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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 25, 2009 02:30:03

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Honey - Natural Treatment for Wounds and Burns

Honey is a highly concentrated sugar solution produced by honeybees. It is commonly used as substitute for sugar or a flavor enhancer. But other than that, honey is also effective in treating burns and wounds and it has been used for this purpose for many centuries. Now it is known that the secret of honey lies on its antibacterial activity.

How Can Honey Stop Infection?

We know that bacteria love sugar, but why most bacteria and other microorganisms cannot grow or reproduce in honey? Here are the reasons:


  1. Acidity - Honey is acidic, and acids prevent the growth of bacteria.
  2. Hydrogen Peroxide - When honey is applied as a wound dressing, it is diluted with fluids from the damaged tissue and combines with an enzyme added by the bee to form hydrogen peroxide, the same antiseptic found in drugstores. Diluted honey can serve as an excellent antiseptic because the naturally occurring hydrogen peroxide won’t harm the tissues and no scarring will occur.

Applying Honey as a Wound Dressing


  1. Usually, 20 ml of honey (25 - 30 g, 1 ounce) is enough on a 10 cm X 10 cm (4 inch X 4 inch) dressing. The honey dressings should be cut to a size that extends beyond the edges of the wound.
  2. To prevent honey oozing out from the wound dressing, waterproof dressings are needed. Absorbent dressings are not recommended as they soak the honey making it less effective. Adhesive tape or bandages can be used to hold the dressings in place.
  3. It is better to spread the honey on the dressing first before applying it on the wound area.
  4. If there are abscesses in the wound area, fill it with honey before applying the dressing pad, so that there is honey in contact with the wound.
  5. The amount of honey required on the wound depends on the amount of fluid it exudes. Honey will be useless if it is diluted by large amounts of fluid. Also the frequency of dressing changes depends on how fast the honey is being diluted by fluid.
  6. On deeper infections, more honey is required to get an effective antibacterial activity.
  7. Daily dressing changes up to three times daily may be needed.
  8. Exudation of fluid should be reduced after few days use of honey dressing. During this time, less dressing changes will be needed.

Honey Used as Medicine

Below are some common problems which can easily be prevented from the use of honey:


  1. Allergies - Raw honey is an excellent treatment for 90% of allergies.
  2. Anemia - Honey is a great blood enricher. The darker the honey the better. Take 1 ripe banana with 1 tablespoon of honey, 1-2 times a day.
  3. Appetite - Honey improves appetite in children suffering from appetite loss.
  4. Conjunctivitis - Dissolve honey in equal amount of warm water. When cooled, apply as lotion or eye bath.
  5. Fatigue and exhaustion - Honey is the best ingredient to remove tiredness and fatigue almost instantly because it is easily absorbed in the blood. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of honey in warm water or quarter honey balance of water in a jug and keep in the fridge.
  6. Headaches and Migraine - Take 2 teaspoons at meals to prevent headache. For migraines, take 1 dessertspoon of honey dissolved in a half glass of warm water. Repeat in 20 minutes if migraine persists.
  7. Heart Diseases - Honey can fight against cholesterol. Pure honey taken with foods daily instead of sugar relieves complains of cholesterol. This is helpful for old people, especially sufferers of diabetes, heart disease, high blood pressure and others.
  8. High Blood Pressure - Take mixed 1 teaspoon of honey, 1 teaspoon of ginger juice and 1 teaspoon of cumin powder 2 times a day.
  9. Insomnia (Sleeplessness) - Take 1 teaspoon of honey mixed in lukewarm water or milk and drink before going to bed.
  10. Poor Digestion - Mix 1:1 honey with cider vinegar and dilute with water.
  11. Skin - Honey is a good moisturizer. It also helps in reducing skin problems like pimples.
  12. Sore Throat - Let 1 teaspoon of honey melt in the back of the mouth and trickle down the throat.
  13. Stomachache - Take 1 teaspoon of honey, juice of a ½ lemon with a hot glass of water first thing in the morning.
  14. Teeth - Although honey is sweet, it helps to maintain and protect teeth.

Important: Honey contains a certain bacterium that might be harmful in infants; it should never be fed to children younger than one year old. Otherwise it could lead to food poisoning.

Now you know that when honey is applied properly to a wound, it can promote healing just as good as or often better than, over-the-counter ointments and dressings. It is also a great preventive medicine on common ailments.




About The Author:
Junji Takano is a Japanese health researcher and has been studying the causes of viruses since 1960s. In 1968, he invented Pyro-Energen, the first electrotherapy device that eradicates viral diseases in a non-narcotic way.
Visit him at: http://www.pyroenergen.com
Free newsletter: http://www.pyroenergen.com/newsletter.htm

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DIY Flooring - How to Install Carpet

One of the most daunting DIY flooring projects is installing carpet. Many people are intimidated by the thought of installing carpet, feeling that it is beyond their abilities. This is in large part due to the special tools required. However, installing carpet is actually a fairly easy DIY flooring project and by doing it yourself, you can save a great deal of money in installation costs.

Tools Installing carpet does require some specialty tools. These include a knee stretcher, power stretcher, seam iron, seam roller, wall trimmer, and stair tool. However these tools can be rented from your local rental store. This is much more cost effective than purchasing the tools.

You will also need a carpet knife, hammer, tack strips (also referred to as tackless strips), staple gun or hammer stapler, and carpet seam tape.

Preparing Floor It is very important to prepare the floor properly before installing carpet. Carpeting can be installed over cement, wood, or linoleum. However, if the flooring is damaged, it is best to remove or replace the damaged subfloor. Take this time to repair any squeaks in the floor due to loose boards.

The subfloor should be cleaned thoroughly before installing your carpet. You don't want any dirt or debris underneath which can damage the padding and carpet. You should remove any floor registers and if you have doors which swing into the room, it is easier to remove the doors rather than try to work around them.

Installing the Padding Before installing the padding, you will need to install tack strips along the edges of the walls and around floor register openings. Do not install the tack strips in front of door openings. These strips should be installed about 1/4" from the wall with the tacks leaning towards the wall. Most tack strips will already have nails in them for nailing to the flooring. If you have a cement floor, you may need to glue the strips down using a masonry adhesive.

The next step is to roll out your padding, starting along one wall. Overlap the tack strips by approximately 3-4 inches, making sure the padding remains smooth and straight without bunching. Use a staple gun or hammer stapler to staple the padding to the carpet, placing a staple every 6 inches or so. If you have a cement floor or do not want to damage the underlying floor, you can use adhesive to installing the padding.

You can use duct tape along the seams to help keep them from bunching when you install the carpet. When you have completed the padding installation, use a utility or carpet knife to cut the padding along the tack strips, making sure that the padding does not overlap the strips. Cut out any floor register openings along the tack strips as well.

Installing Carpet Roll the carpet out in the room, again starting along one wall and leaving 3-4 inches of overlap along the walls. Make sure to keep the carpet straight and be careful not to allow any of the padding to bunch up under the carpet. Cut out the floor register openings, also leaving a couple inches of overlap over the tack strips.

If you have more than one section of carpet, you will have to create a seam. Place seam tape beneath the seam with the adhesive side up. Heat your seam iron and then starting at on wall, place the iron directly onto the seam tape until the adhesive melts and press both edges of carpet onto the tape. Use a seam roller or other smooth heavy object to press the seam together and into the adhesive. Follow this process along the entire seam, doing a small section at a time.

Starting in one corner, use the knee stretcher to install the carpet to the tack strip. Place the head of the kicker a few inches from the wall and kick the pad sharply with your knee. Repeat this process every 6-8 inches along the wall. Once that is complete, we will use the power stretcher to install the carpet along the other walls. Place one end of the power stretcher along the wall you just completed and the head of the stretcher along the opposite wall, about 4-6 inches from the wall. When you push the lever down, the carpet is stretched over the tack strips. Repeat this along the entire wall as well as the remaining walls. Use the knee kicker to stretch the carpet over the tacks along any floor register openings.

When the carpet has been attached to all of the tack strips, use the wall trimmer to cut the excess carpeting along the wall. This will keep the edges straight and gives us a close cut. Using a stair tool or stiff putty knife, tuck the edges of the carpet underneath the baseboard along the wall.

Finally, install door edge strip in doorways to cover the carpet edge and make a transition into the next room. Replace your register covers and you are done!

As you can see, installing your own carpeting can be fairly easy if you have the right tools and instructions. So when you are getting ready for your next DIY flooring project, don't shy away from carpeting due to installation costs. Install it yourself and save some money!




Kristin J. Yates

DIY Flooring Blog

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Best Wart Remover

Choosing the Best Wart Remover

Whether you are troubled by one wart or by several, there is a good chance that looking into good wart removal is something that is on your mind. However, it is worth noting that if you go to the drug store, or even if you end up going to the doctor that you are going to have a number of different options in front of you. Many doctors agree that there are several, equally valid methods of removing warts and that you should work on finding the one that works best for you. The best wart remover is going to be the one that serves you well in your present condition.

First, you should see if any of the over the counter wart solutions appeal to you. You will find that they are typically the most inexpensive, but that you should figure out how they work in order to make sure that you are going to get good results. The most common over the counter solutions that you will find will typically involve salicylic acid. You will find that salicylic acid is used in either the form of an adhesive patch or a bottle of concentrated solution. With this method, you will typically remove dead skin that is infected with the wart virus and then you will file off the remnants with an abrasive of some sort.

You will also find that you might be interested in an orthodox but increasingly common wart removal solution that involves the use duct tape. The most simple solution is to apply duct tape to the wart over clean and dry skin, to leave it for a few days and then to pull it off. The adhesive of the duct tape will pull away the dead skin and also incite your body's immune system to start healing itself. After the duct tape has been removed, the skin is then cleaned and abraded to remove the last remnants. Although several doctors have found this method effective, it also risks infection and skin irritation.

When you are looking for the best wart remover, remember that there are also some great options offered by your doctor. Some doctors will suggest cryotherapy where the wart is frozen off over the the course of several weeks, or surgery, where the wart is simply removed. You will find that these different solutions for a wart problem have several different advantages and disadvantages, and that you should speak about them seriously with your doctor.

Take some time and think about the warts in question. Think about their location and how comfortable you feel about treating them on your own. You may find that depending on the location or the condition of the wart that you would rather look at removal with the guidance of a doctor. Take some time and see what you can do to get this annoying issue resolved!




Learn How To Get Rid Of A Wart with completely safe, painless, and effective methods. Find out the best Wart and Mole Removal methods on the net.

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Shadowboxes Protect Your Precious Investments in NFL Memorabilia

Sports are big, but how big is the sports memorabilia business? Experts estimate that it is currently worth over $2 billion. Fans who are not satisfied merely to watch games and track statistics of their favorite teams (such as the New England Patriots) collect all types of sports memorabilia items. This can be a hobby, or even a full-time job.

One of the main concerns when collecting any type of memorabilia, such as sports memorabilia, is keeping the items in top-notch condition. Use a shadowbox to protect your items from dust, dirt, moisture, etc., in order to maximize the items' value. Here are some easy steps to construct your own sports memorabilia shadowboxes:

Step 1: Collect and prepare the materials

• 8"x10" maple 106 natural frame
• 8"x10" mounting board
• 8"x10" papermat mat board
• 8"x10" plexiglass
• 786 Slate Blue
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Sharp cutting blade
• Kraft paper.
Adhesive transfer tape

Determine the size of the sports memorabilia you want to include in the shadowbox, and then allow for about two inches from the item, to the border.

Step 2: Use the mat board
Attach the memorabilia to the mat board, using one of a variety of items, such as glue or adhesive transfer tape. Then cut 12 stripes from the two remaining sheets of mat board (6-8" strips and 6-10" strips). Attach the strips in stacks of three, utilizing the adhesive transfer tape. You should have two 8" strips, and two 10" strips. This will serve as a buffer between the sports memorabilia and the plexiglass.

Step 3: Start constructing the shadowbox
Place the frame face-down. Peel off one side of the protective paper, and then place it into the frame. Then peel off the other protective paper. Attach the strips of mat board to the inside region of the frame, using adhesive transfer tape. The mat board should be flush against the plexiglass and the frame.

Step 4: Putting everything together
Position the sports memorabilia item and its attached board, inside the frame. Next, place all the pieces from Step 1, face-down, atop the strips of mat board. Position the mounting board inside the frame. Use the screwdriver to attach spring clips to the frame.

Step 5: Add finishing touches
Your next mission (should you wish to accept it), is to attach a dust cover and hanging hardware, to the shadowbox. Attach adhesive transfer tape onto the frame's back, and then put Kraft paper atop it-to create a dust cover. Use a dust cover trimmer to cut away extra paper. Spray water onto the paper, to tighten the paper. Finally, attach a wire or saw tooth, and "hanging hardware" to the back of the shadowbox.

Regardless of which NFL team you cheer on during the season, you may have sports memorabilia that you want to display. Use a shadowbox to show off your items, while protecting them from harmful substances. Shadowboxes erase any shadow of a doubt that your sports memorabilia is not safe and secure!




Rick Grantham is an avid sports fan. Most of Rick's articles focus on New England Patriots sports merchandise. Many articles are related to NFL sports gear and other sports related topics. Rick is a contributing author to BooYah Village

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3M Command 17204 Medium Picture Hanging Strips, 6-Sets

3M Command 17204 Medium Picture Hanging Strips, 6-Sets Review



I love these, they really work. I was skeptical at first, but had no choice but to try them as I was destroying my plaster walls trying to hang pictures. They really are easy to use, really do hold the picture and you really can reposition the picture w/in the first few minutes after hanging it w/o peeling the paint off the wall. Everything is as advertised. You also really can remove the picture days/weeks/months later - it's like velcro where 1/2 the velcro will stay on your wall and 1/2 on your picture so you can replace the photo or whatever you need to do and re-hang it. I know they come in small, medium and large, but I just use the medium for everything.
****Update: I have had pictures fall off the wall after a month or 2, but I still use these because it's better than putting a hole in your wall. In my case I would just have blank walls because it's impossible to get a nail into them. Also, I used these to mount some small decorative pieces (e.g. a butterfly, a small mirror) that have a hook for my 3 year old daughter to hang her stuff up and she tends to pull them off the wall, but it's OK because the velcro just separates and I can just mount it again really easily - no spare parts necessary. So I would say they are kid-proof, too, versus using nails - as long as the object itself is kidproof.


3M Command 17204 Medium Picture Hanging Strips, 6-Sets Feature


  • 6 sets per pack for added affordability
  • Once click tells you picture handing strips are locked in and holding tight
  • Medium strips hold most 16-by-20-inch frames
  • Comes off cleanly leaving no holes, marks, sticky residue, or stains
  • Works great on painted surfaces, wood, tile, and more

3M Command 17204 Medium Picture Hanging Strips, 6-Sets Overview


Command, Medium Picture Hanging Strips, 6 Sets Per Pack, Revolutionary Mounting Solution That Holds Firmly, Removes Cleanly & Leaves No Surface Damage.

3M Command 17204 Medium Picture Hanging Strips, 6-Sets Specifications



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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 18, 2009 05:40:04

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3M 00021200882289 8959 50mmx50m 3m Filament Tape

3M 00021200882289 8959 50mmx50m 3m Filament Tape Review




3M 00021200882289 8959 50mmx50m 3m Filament Tape Feature


  • Package Quantity: (1) 60 Yard Roll
  • Type: Bi-Directional Filament Tape
  • Color: Clear
  • Width (Inch): 2
  • Width (mm): 50mm
  • Length (Yards) (Yards): 60
  • Length Meter: 50
  • Thickness (mil): 5.7
  • Tensile Strength (Pounds): 150
  • Tape Number: 8959

3M 00021200882289 8959 50mmx50m 3m Filament Tape Overview


Filament Strapping Pads - Packaging & Shipping Tape Type: Bi-Directional Filament Tape Color: Clear Width: 2, 50 mm Length (Yards): 60 Length Meter: 50 Thickness (mil): 5.7 Tensile Strength: 150

3M 00021200882289 8959 50mmx50m 3m Filament Tape Specifications



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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 16, 2009 19:50:04

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How to Make a Rag Rug in 5 Easy Steps

Rag work is a traditional craft which has in recent years become very trendy again. The great appeal it has is that it is very economical and environmentally friendly. Nowadays anything that is good for the environment is important. In rag work recycled materials are used transforming old and worn clothing into useful and beautiful works of art. I will give you simple instructions on how to create a small rag rug from materials you probably have in your house. The design you choose is entirely up to you and your skill level. At first I would attempt something simple such as squares, each with a different color of fabric.

1. Materials:
Cotton Fabric Strips: old printed shirts and dresses or old sheets and pillow cases cut into strips approximately ½ inch wide and as long as you want.

Jersey Fabric Strips: cotton t-shirts cut into ½ inch wide and long strips
Plastic Strips: plastic shopping bags with text and images on them, also ½ inch wide and as long as you want.

Foil Strips: gift wrap, foil wrapping from candy and chocolate bars also ½ inches wide and as long as you want.

Tapestry Canvas: This you can buy in a craft store and it is quite rigid so you don't need a frame. Try to buy with a weave of 3 holes to an inch.

Carpet Binding Tape: This is used to bind edges and seams on the back of rugs.
Latex Carpet Adhesive: You will need this for the backing of your finished piece. Use in a well ventilated area.

Rug Hook: There are different types of rug hooks which you can find in the same section as your tapestry canvas. Usually it has a wooden handle with a silver or brass hook at the top.
Strong Household Glue: to glue the borders onto the back.

2. Basic Techniques:
Hooking is the most common technique. This is when you use strips of your fabric and pull them through the hole in your canvas. The material can be hooked through and left as a loop pile surface or sheared with scissors to create a cut pile surface. An interesting effect is to combine loop pile and cut pile within one piece to create a sculptural look. When starting your project always leave approximately 2-3 inches of a border, at the end this border will be turned under to create a professional finished look.

Step 1.
Place one hand underneath the canvas and loop a piece of fabric between your thumb and forefinger. With your other hand above the canvas push the hook through the hole. Feed the fabric on to the hook.

Step 2.
Pull the hook back up through the canvas, bringing the end of the strip of fabric through to the top.

Step 3.
Skip one hole in your canvas so the loops don't become too crowded. Push the hook back through the canvas and feed the fabric loop on to the hook as before. Pull the hook back up through the canvas to make a loop approximately ½ inch high. Continue this looping process and bring the ends of fabric through to the top and trim to the same height as the loops.

Step 4.
To create the cut pile look make your loops ¼ inch high and shear across the loops with a pair of good scissors.

Step 5.
Turn over the two inch border and adhere to the back of the canvas with some strong glue. Let dry for a few hours and then apply one or two coats of the latex carpet adhesive over the entire surface. Let dry overnight, and read instructions on back of carpet adhesive for further details.

Once your project is dry you can place your new rag rug anywhere in your house and enjoy it for years to come. The great thing is that these rugs are durable enough to throw in the washing machine after a few months of high traffic.




Annette Labedzki received her BFA at the Emily Carr College of Art and Design in Vancouver, B.C. Canada. She has more than 25 years experience. She is the founder and developer of an online art gallery featuring original art from all over the world. It is a great site for art collectors to buy original art. Is is also a venue for artists to display and sell their art . Artists can join for free and their image upload is unlimited. Please visit the website at http://www.labedzki-art.com

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Butyl Tape

Its definitely the most reliable tape you'll come across. It sticks on metal, glass, wood, concrete you name it. As if not enough, its resistance to temperature variations is amazing. In fact, whether intense heat or extreme cold it does the trick and good for all weather. Butyl tape is a result of high demand for a product with advanced adhesive quality. Made from a chemical butyl derivative, this tape serves you well in joining and its self adhesive.

Not only is it waterproof but it also prevents corrosion on the applied area. If you like working outdoors, you need not worry as the ultraviolet rays of the sun don't affect it in any way!What more can one ask for? So,if you haven't got one yet, you'll spoil for choice while buying one since it comes in different sizes depending on what you want to use it for. Manufacturers also go an extra mile to ensure you get exactly what you want.Talk about value for money!

It has several home uses which include; water pipes insulation, ventilation systems sealing, flashing, on underground pipes and joints to prevent corrosion and the list goes on. The Butyl tape can be used to seal air vents,chimney areas and sliding doors. It can also be used for seal guttering or on corrugated sheets.

As soldiers are always taught in military schools, it's always good to be ready. You don't wait until disaster strikes and start panicking. Have a roll of the Butyl tape with you always in case anything should happen or visit the Internet where you can get to know more about it.




Peter Gitundu Creates Interesting And Thought Provoking Content on Adhesive Tapes. For More Information, Read More Of His Articles Here ADHESIVE TAPES If You Enjoyed This Article, Make Sure You SUBSCRIBE TO MY RSS FEED!

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Remove Blackheads - Easy Removal

Blackhead medically name is open comedo. Blackheads are caused by partially blocked pores. Blackheads are also caused and worsened by excess topical oils and makeup. The congesting toxins that are being expelled through your skin from the blood and lymph fluid combines with sebum creating a pasty glue. The exposed tip becomes oxidized and black, hence the name - blackheads. Blackheads are the first stage of acne. Acne is a skin condition that causes spots. Most people affected by acne are aged between 12 and 25. These lesions typically develop after puberty, once hormones start surging in the body and skin. Blackheads, also known as open comedones, are follicles that have a wider than normal opening. They are filled with plugs of sebum and sloughed off cells and have undergone a chemical reaction resulting in the oxidation of melanin. Blackheads can also be aggravated if you leave your skin dirty and dead cells accumulate within your open pores. The dead cells plug the pore opening resulting in oil build-up within the pore.

Blackheads occur when the trapped sebum and bacteria partially open to the surface. Blackheads are the slightly different sibling of zits, and like zits, squeezing them can be addictive. Blackheads are very commonly found in the area across your forehead and down your nose and chin. Sebaceous glands on this area of the face are very, very active. However they can also occur on other areas of the face, neck, chest, back, shoulder, even arms – any area that is rich in sebaceous glands. Some people experience blackened pores as a result of serious acne issue. One effective method regarding how to remove blackheads concerns a hot wash cloth. There are several ways to deal with ugly, clogged pores depending on how they present themselves. Use of drugs like benozyl peroxide, accutane, are also helpful in blackhead treatments, but always consult a doctor before using any of the above mentioned drugs. Use of pore strips is probably the most popular one, but this method is also the most harmful one.

Pore strips do remove the blackheads but only temporarily, also it can cause severe damage to the skin in and around the blackheads. Use a method of extraction that is effective, yet gentle to the skin. Cosmetic blackhead removal tape is another tool of choice for many people. Applied to softened pores and then pulled upward, the tape uses an adhesive to tug at the head of the debris and lift it away. Avoid cooked carbohydrates and fats, replace these with fresh fruits, vegetables and raw fats (avocadoes, olives, olive oil etc). Always remove your make up with a cleanser at the end of the day. Keep all your make up brushes and sponges clean. Wash them in mild shampoo once a month and let dry completely before using. Develop a good facial and body skin care routine. Exercise discipline to wash the dirt, grime, oil and cosmetics away from the face and skin. Facial cleansers with salicylic acid will help to remove debris and surface oil that clogs pores.

Remove Blackheads Treatment Tips

1. Wash the skin using a gentle, natural exfoliating product and pat the skin dry.

2. Apply a clay mask, such as bentonite clay or seaweed clay mask.

3. Rinse off with warm water and pat the skin dry.

4. Use creams containing AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Fruit acids) like glyco-creams that will clear away any dead skin cells and "expose" the blackhead.

5. Sunshine or ultra-violet light encourages skin peeling, and so helps to clear blocked pores.

6. Avoid washing the face with soaps more than twice a day. Instead wash your face often with plain water splashes.

7. Tea Tree Oil (Melaleuca Oil) has been used with some success, and has been shown to be an effective anti-inflammatory in skin infections.

8. Laser surgery has been in use for some time to reduce the scars left behind by blackheads.




Juliet Cohen is an expert in Skin Disorders. Learn tips on Blackhead Home Remedies and Beauty Tips

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

Skateboard Decks - History and Construction

Shown in movies and commercials or seen on the side of roads and at skateparks, skateboarding is a relatively new sport, which has found its way into mainstream American culture. It was once difficult to find or create areas in which to skate, but now cities are full of designated skate areas in order to accommodate skateboarders. Despite the vast amount of skaters and skateboard companies at present, the origins of skateboarding and the invention of the skateboard are shrouded in mystery.

It has been argued the first skateboards arose in the 1930's and 1940's when children would ride soap-box carts attached to rollerskates (or planks on roller skates). Removing the box from the plank would leave a plank on wheels or what could be called a skateboard deck. However, others suggest the skateboard was an adaptation of a dismantled rollerskate-that is, the wheels were removed from a rollerskate and then added to a plank, a move that was influenced by surfers and their desire to recreate the surfing motion on land. Both possible origin theories have been argued in historical texts, magazines, and even on the big screen in documentaries as well as out on the street.

However, we do know the first retail skateboard appeared in 1958 and was marketed by Bill and Mark Richards of Dana Point, California. It was then mass-produced and remodeled in the 1960s. The blank, or deck, was often made in the shape of a surfboard out of solid wood or plastic. Some metal boards were created as well. The wheels were often made out of clay or steel and were less sturdy than today's version of wheels.

Constructed out of 7-ply cross-laminated maple, most decks are stable and can handle daily use and hard-play. However some decks are made out of fiberglass, resin, Kevlar, bamboo, aluminum, or carbon fiber or plastic components as well in order to increase rigidity.

The average size deck is 8 inches wide. Some can be as small as 7 inches and others are up to 10.5 inches. Width depends primarily on style and preference. Street skating usually requires a deck that is 7.5"-8", while wider decks are used for trick skating. The average length of the board is 29-33 inches long. However, longer decks are known as longboards and are quite common. They are much longer and do not have "kicktails," but instead are aerodynamic and intended for street-skating long lengths of road or downhill.

On top of the deck, grip tape is used. It provides the skater the ability to "grip" the deck by creating friction. On one side of the grip tape is an adhesive, which attaches to the deck. On the other side is a sandpaper-like top. While the general feel and shape of a skateboard is quite common, the main difference in boards is located on the bottom of the deck. Decks can range from solid colors and patterns to graffiti-covered art. Styles can include logos, phrasing, cartoon or movie or comic book characters, to original characters and themes such as aliens, music, animals, or skulls and crossbones.




Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for Web sites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background also includes teaching, gardening, and recreation. For more of her useful articles on skateboards, please visit Skateboard Decks, supplier of information about skateboards.

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

Face Exercises That Prevent Premature Aging by Jeanette Johnson

It only makes sense that we can preserve at least some of our youthful facial appearance through exercises. We run, go to the gym, perform calisthenics and lift weight to grow bigger muscles in our arms, legs and abdomens -- or at least to keep the muscle we already have.

After some time exercising those muscles, they do get bigger or at least firmer.

We don't want our facial muscles to bulge out like a bodybuilder's biceps, but it'd be nice to keep them firm even as the years pass. And it only stands to reason that firmer facial muscles will make the skin on our faces look firmer.

As time goes by, these muscles lose their natural elasticity. They still react to our facial expression -- frowns or smiles, but this is not enough activity to maintain their youthful control.

When you're young and you squint a few thousand times, the muscles involved naturally return to their original condition and position. However, beginning in your twenties, they start to lose that natural adaptability and squint lines start forming.

So facial exercises may not eliminate all worry wrinkles and frowns, but may help prevent or firm up sagging jowls and chins.

This book is the result of research the author did over thirty years to develop her Designer Exercises. She outlines the facial muscles, and it's interesting to learn there're ten of them, from the forehead to the neck.

Plus, according to the author, these exercises help stimulate the growth of fat cells around the muscles. Although we ordinarily do not want to encourage the growth of fat cells, this case is exception.

Our faces naturally have enough fat cells to make our face look full and vital when we're young. Losing fat cells is part of why our faces look sunken and puffy when we're older.

Most of the book consists of the exercises, divided into sections based on the facial feature. She starts with the lips and lower face because that's the area most affected by premature aging. Plus there are exercises for men and women over the age of 40.

One section is devoted to biofeedback, since many people will at first have trouble isolating small portions of their faces to exercises just those specific muscles. Her point is not to have people buy a regular biofeedback machine, but she cites experiments to show that people can gain greater awareness and control of their bodies, with time and practice. So she is encouraging, because many readers will have trouble at first, but should not give up.

One criticism I have is that she doesn't give an overall program. In notes, she says that since you won't have time to do them all every day, just do some every day. Concentrate on problem areas.

But for many people, their entire face is the problem area. What is the best way to rotate the exercises? Or is there one that will help with all the rest? She doesn't offer any systematic guidance. Just do the ones you have for.

She does suggest the amounts of time to do the exercises and the number of repetitions, and adds that you can do more than this if you feel the need. But it could be weeks before someone realizes that the suggested number of repetitions is not enough for them. They may quit rather than simply increase the number of reps to a high enough number to get the results they want.

It's difficult to write a book that can fit every reader, because everybody's different and so are their faces and facial problems, but more guidance toward formulating your own workout plan would have been helpful.

At the end she includes a chapter on using a tape masque to get rid of wrinkles. That's putting adhesive tape on various sections of your face to pull them together.

I haven't tried that -- I'd feel like a fool putting adhesive tape all over my face. That's just too "metrosexual" for me.

Maybe it works but, as a man, I feel more comfortable with the idea of exercising muscles.




Richard Stooker has a long-time interest in health, diet and fitness subjects. He read Nathan Pritikin and stuffed himself with whole grain spaghetti. He read Dr. Atkins and disrupted his metabolism by eating only protein. He's lost weight on the Zone diet by eating Zone favorable zone bars and balance bars.

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

3M 00021200881909 8981 18mmx55m 3m Filament Tape

3M 00021200881909 8981 18mmx55m 3m Filament Tape Review




3M 00021200881909 8981 18mmx55m 3m Filament Tape Feature


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Filament Strapping Pads - Packaging & Shipping Tape Type: Superior Performance Reinforced Filament Tape Color: Clear Width: 3/4, 55 mm Length (Yards): 60 Length Meter: 55 Thickness (mil): 6.0

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Velcro 3/4-Inch by 15-Feet Fastener Tape, Red

Velcro 3/4-Inch by 15-Feet Fastener Tape, Red Review



my daughter is a teacher and uses this on her bulletin board....it's great because the red matches the background color and she can change the pictures frequently using the velcro instead of push pins.


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Scotch® Performance Masking Tape 2364 (24 Rolls)

Scotch® Performance Masking Tape 2364 (24 Rolls) Review




Scotch® Performance Masking Tape 2364 (24 Rolls) Feature


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Minn Kota Trolling Motors

Build Your own Golf Equipment - The Easiest Set of Golf Clubs to Build with Steel Shafts

Depending on what kind of golfer you are and how well you want your clubs to match will depend on what kind of assembling equipment you need. Components are manufactured well enough so that even with very basic knowledge and skills, you can build a very nice looking and great performing set of golf clubs that you will be proud to use and show your friends for many years to come.

If you would like to build a set of clubs as inexpensively as possible and as easily as possible, you'll use steel shafts and clubheads that don't require a ferrule. The ferrule is that fancy piece of decorative plastic at the top of the hosel that blends the shape of the hosel into the shaft. Many clubheads have rounded hosels that don't require a ferrule. If the clubhead you desire uses a ferrule, then it's not too much additional work to add it. These instructions will familiarize you with the process so that you can decide whether this is an endeavor worth pursuing or not. If you decide it is for you and you'd like to move forward, get additional instruction from the golf club component company that you use to ensure that you are aware of anything else that they would suggest in addition to these instructions.

Basic Assembly Equipment

1. 2-part 5 minute Epoxy - Mixing surface and mixing stick.

2. Double sided grip tape.

3. Grip solvent - paint thinner works great.

4. Metal tubing cutter (found in hardware stores and used for cutting copper plumbing pipe) It squeezes down on the pipe and has a metal cutting wheel and as you turn it around and around as you tighten it down on the pipe, it eventually cuts the pipe.

5. Measuring tape.

6. Permanent Ink Marker.

7. Acetone (Used to remove any excess epoxy/adhesive - found in a paint store or hardware store)

Optional Equipment

1. Ferrules (pretty plastic finish pieces required for some clubheads)

2. Swing Weight Scale. Opinions about swingweight differ. Some say swingweighting is important while others are unconcerned. The most important part about swingweighting is that your golf clubs match as closely as possible so that they feel the same when you swing them. See notes toward the bottom regarding swingweighting.

3. Loft Lie guage and bender (For very specific golfers who want an exact loft lie angle for each club. Requires a great degree of knowledge to achieve the desired result correctly so that the heads aren't damaged and the loft/lie desired is maintained long term)

Golf Club Equipment.

This is the fun part where you get to select the clubheads, shafts and grips that you want for your very own personalized look.
Sellers of component golf equipment can help you select the right components to match your abilities and desired results. Considerations like:
grip -type (round,ribbed) -material (soft, cord, tour wrap) - core size (56,58,60)
shaft length-flex stiffness-torque-kickpoint etc.

Golf Club Assembly

Most of your time will be and should be spent in "accurately" cutting your shafts to length. Your shafts will have instructions on how to cut them to achieve the correct stiffness which typically means cutting some of the length off of the tip. The tip is the narrow end that fits into the clubhead hosel and the butt end is the wide end where you place the grip. Once the shafts have been cut for stiffness, then you cut length off from the butt end for each individual shafts length.

Cutting the shaft for stiffness

Example (Assuming shaft instructions require you to cut 1 inch off the tip for correct stiffness)

Measure 1 inch from the tip end and make a mark with permanent marker which is easily removed with Acetone. Measure Twice - Cut Once!! Place the tubing cutter over the shaft and tighten the cutter down onto the shaft with the cutter wheel placed exactly on top of the mark where you want the cut. Spin the tubing cutter around until it starts to get loose and if the cutter still hasn't cut through the tubing yet, tighten it down some more until the tubing is completely cut. (Note: During the first few turns of the tubing cutter, make sure that the cutting wheel stays exactly over the mark in the same place during each rotation and doesn't walk or move up or down the shaft inadvertently)

Cutting the shaft to length

Golf club shaft lengths have whats considered to be a standard length. When you purchase clubs from a store already assembled off the shelf, they are in standard lengths. If you are building your own clubs and you feel you need something other than standard length, you can do that easily when you cut the shafts to length. An important consideration for anyone thinking that a longer golf shaft will make it so you can hit the golfball farther. A longer shaft will increase the swing weight of the club and require more strength to swing it. The comparison is if you choke down on your driver, its easier to swing it when its shorter verses holding out on the end at full length. I experimented with this once and added a full inch over standard to my entire set. I did hit it farther by about 10 yards on average through my irons, but it affected my tempo and required much more strength. By around the 15th hole, I often found that I was unable to get the club through the impact area on time and starting slicing the golf ball so I cut the shafts shorter to only 1/4" inch over standard which is where I should be for my specific body dimensions anyway.

Measure and mark all of your shafts before cutting any of them and then lie them out side by side to make sure that they are all in a consistent stair step pattern. A 2 iron is 1/2" shorter than a 1 iron and so on until you get to a 9 iron. The 9 iron through Lob Wedge are all the same length.

Once you're sure you've got the lengths right, make the cuts. It's very helpful to label each shaft accordingly so they can be quickly matched up with the corresponding clubhead.

Adding the clubheads to the shafts

Placing the clubheads on the shafts (without ferrules)
Slide the golf shaft into the hosel and mark the depth on the shaft with a permanent marker that the shaft goes into the hosel so that you will know how far up the shaft to place the epoxy.
Thoroughly mix up some 2-part epoxy. Use a pencil to put a thin layer of epoxy down inside the full length of the clubhead hosel and put a thin layer of epoxy on the golf shaft up to the mark that you just made previously. (You don't want to puddle the epoxy excessively in the hosel as you will be adding additional weight to the clubhead which will make your swingweight different than other clubs that don't have the puddled adhesive in the head.) Lean the club against a wall to set while you do this for the rest of the clubs. Once the 5 minute epoxy has set after atleast 5-10 minutes, use a rag with some acetone to remove any excess epoxy from the shaft and clubhead.

Adding Grips

Place grip tape on the shaft.
Grip tape has adhesive on both sides. Double sided adhesive tape comes in narrow widths and wide widths. Depending on which tape you get determines the easiest way to place the tape on the shaft. The narrower tape may require you to wrap the tape in a spiral circular motion down the shaft. Try to get it spaced evenly so that it doesn't overlap or leave big gaps. If you get the wider tape, you can just place a long strip down the shaft a little longer than the length of the grip, and remove the backing and wrap it around the shaft. Place the grip tape on the shaft so that there is an extra ¼” of tape or so extending out beyond the butt end of the shaft. Squeeze that tape together and push it into the end of the golf shaft to seal the end of the golf shaft and prevent anything from getting into the golf shaft. Once the grip has been slid onto the shaft, any tape that protrudes beyond the grip can be easily trimmed with a razor blade or you can measure how far the grip extends down the shaft in advance and put a mark on the shaft and trim the tape a little shorter than the length of the grip before you put the grip on. As mentioned earlier regarding the diameter of the grip, if you need a little wider grip, you can put an extra wrap or two of tape on the shaft to enlarge the diameter of the grip.

Slide the grip on the shaft.
While covering the little hole in the end of the grip with a finger, put enough grip solvent into the grip so that it can coat all the inside walls of the grip. Put enough in so that while now covering the holes of the grip at both ends with your fingers that you can shake the grip and feel the solvent slosh around in the grip. Carefully dump/pour any excess solvent that is in the grip out over the entire surface of the grip tape on your golf club shaft. Now both the inside of the grip and the exterior surface of the grip tape should be coated with solvent.

Note: the grip solvent prevents the grip tape adhesive from setting up for a short period of time, so you will only have maybe 10 seconds or less to get the grip on and get it aligned before the adhesive sets and the grip cannot be moved any longer.

Now slide the grip onto the shaft. If your grip has grip alignment marks for your hands on the grip or a grip reminder ridge that runs down the backside of the grip, try to make sure the grip goes on as straight as possible in the first place so that you don’t have to twist the grip much once its on the shaft to get it aligned correctly. If you have a shaft vice, aligning the grip will be a little easier at this point however it’s not very hard to align the grip without the vice. Eyeball from the top of the grip down the shaft to make sure the entire grip is aligned with the face of the club.

Let the grips cure overnight before using them.

The first set of clubs you build will give you a sense of pride and satisfaction and you'll thoroughly enjoy using your personalized set of golf clubs on the course. I've built a few sets for myself now and my most recent set is graphite which is a little more difficult and requires more patience but if you want to know more about it, let me know.

Selecting the right golf club shaft.

Selecting the right golf club shaft is by far the most important aspect to consider when purchasing golf club components to build your set. Distance, accuracy and ball flight are all affected by the type of golf shaft that you select.

The most important factor in selecting any golf shaft is the stiffness. Golf Shaft stiffness generically ranges from the most flexible ladies shaft to the least flexible X-Stiff Shaft with Senior, Regular, Firm and Stiff in-between in that order.

Manufacturers use different methods to identify the flex of their shafts. For example, Royal Precision rates their Rifle series shafts from 2.0 to 8.0 offering sixty choices as opposed to the 6 mentioned above. This allows a more precise selection of flex to match the golfer's swing. A consideration to remember is that one manufacturer's "regular" flex rating may not be the same as the next manufacturer's "regular" flex rating.

To determine the flex of a shaft, the shaft's frequency needs to be measured. Frequency is the number of cycles per minute (CPM) or vibrations that the shaft has when the tip end is tweaked while the grip end of the shaft is firmly held at 5.25" from the grip end. A frequency analyzer is used to measure the shaft's CPM rating. A higher CPM measurement means it’s a stiffer shaft.

Usually using a club shaft that is too flexible will cause a tendency to hook the ball while using a shaft that is too stiff will cause a tendency to fade or slice the ball. A golfer wants the most flexible shaft that they can control which would provide the greatest distance.

The most popular materials used in shafts today are steel and graphite. Titanium shafts are available although they are not as popular. Steel and graphite have specific characteristics and advantages. Steel's molecular structure is uniform throughout the shaft. This structure allows manufacturers to produce shafts consistently which is the biggest benefit of steel. Steel shafts are also relatively inexpensive and heavier than graphite. Typical cost of a True Temper Dynamic Gold series steel shaft is $5-6 each with its weight around 125-128 grams and the True Temper TrueLite series can be as light as 89 grams.

Graphite is less consistent than steel due to its complicated manufacturing process. Graphite shafts are significantly lighter than steel typically weighing about 55-60 grams allowing design of longer clubs while maintaining swingweight. Graphite shafts are more expensive than steel ranging from $10-100 per shaft. Graphite is popular for it's vibration dampening, but recent advances in steel shafts such as Sims' Shock Relief, True Temper's Sensicore, and Ping's Cushin have greatly decreased the gap between steel and graphite.

Kick point also known as flex point refers to the specific point on a shaft where the shaft flexes primarily. Shafts are available with low, mid, or high kick points. A shaft designed with a low kick point is generally easier to control and provides a higher ball flight but with less distance and typically appeal to higher handicap golfers. A shaft with a mid kick point provides a combination of power and accuracy with a medium ball flight. A shaft designed with a high kick point usually is more difficult to control and provides a lower ball flight but with more distance which is preferred by lower handicap golfers.

Torque refers to the minor twisting movement of the shaft that occurs at impact. Torque is measured in degrees. The higher the torque rating the more the twist at impact and thus slightly less control of the shot. The lower the torque rating, the less twist at impact and slightly more control of the shot. Graphite shafts usually have a wider range of torque than do steel shafts making torque a larger consideration when purchasing them.

Get educated prior to selecting the most important component of your golf equipment. Assess the benefits of steel vs. graphite with respect to your needs. Kick point and torque are characteristics to be considered although to a lesser degree than flex and shaft material. The best way to get properly fitted for shafts is to receive assistance from an accredited clubmaking company. Try and test as many different flexes as possible prior to making a selection.

A note about club swingweighting

A golf club’s swingweight can be measured using a swingweight scale. Also, if you do a swingweight scale search online (leaderboard.com has one), you can measure the total weight of your club and also see where along the shaft your golf club balances and measure the distance from the grip end of the club to the balance point and input those two sums into the online calculator which will then tell you what your club’s swingweight is.

To describe the feel of swingweight in your hands, the heavier the clubhead feels and the lighter the grip feels, the higher the swingweight. If the clubhead feels light and the grip feels heavier, then it is a lighter swingweight.

Men's clubs are usually swingweighted in the low "D" range. Swingweights measure in letters A-G and numbers 0-10. Women's clubs are usually in the low to mid "C" range. The important thing to remember about swingweight is each golf club within a set should have the same swingweight. If you like a D2 weight, then your entire set should be D2. Swingweight can affect your swing greatly and a club swingweighted too lightly for your physical ability will feel whippy and somewhat uncontrollable while a club that is too heavily swingweighted will feel burdensome and make it difficult to achieve proper tempo.

The weight of a golf club's head, shaft, and grip are all part of determining the club's swingweight. Other equally important factors include the weight and balance point of the shaft and the finished club's length.

One swingweight point is equal to approximately 2 grams in the clubhead. A standard grip (51 grams) accounts for about 9-10 swingweight points at the butt end of the club. If you reduce the weight in the grip end of a club by 4 grams, the resulting swingweight will increase by 1 swingweight point. If you shorten a club by 1/2", the swingweight will decrease by about 3 swingweight points. On the other hand, if you lengthen a club by 1/2" the swingweight will increase by about 3 swingweight points. Another method to increase swingweight is to add lead tape to the clubhead. A 1/2" wide strip of lead tape approximately 4 1/2" long weighs about 2 grams and will add 1 swingweight point to the club. Keep in mind that the club's "total weight" may also be altered while altering the club's swingweight .

If you have access to a set of clubs that feels good for you, you can find out what their swing weight is as a starting point prior to building your own set so you know what combination of grip, clubhead, and shaft to use to achieve the swingweight you desire. Golf club building companies can assist you in choosing the correct combination of components. If you want to alter your swingweight and don't want to do it yourself, a golf club maker can alter your clubs to meet your specific requirements. My site http://www.AGameGolfClubs.com has some great companies as resources.




Find Great Resources at http://www.AGameGolfClubs.com
http://www.AGameGolfInstruction.com
http://www.AAAGolfCourse.com

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

The Scoop On Carbon Fiber Hoods

There are a few reasons that carbon fiber has taken off in the past few years. It is a lightweight, rigid, visually appealing material. It has a unique textured look and a smooth finish. It is surprisingly strong, and doesn't flex much.

Take carbon fiber hoods for example. A lot of tuners like to add a carbon fiber hood on their cars. Opposed to the steel factory hoods, these carbon fiber hoods can reduce the weight of the vehicle by as much as 40 or 50 pounds on some applications. This modification, when added to other weight reducing modifications, can slightly decrease 0-60 times and marginally improves handling and acceleration.

The other reason is the cool textured looking finish. Add a few carbon fiber touches as a theme throughout the vehicle and this can score some major style points.

These carbon fiber hoods are fairly expensive for their weight reducing capabilities, but add a lot of style for the money. Once you have purchased the hood you want, it's time to get it installed. You may need a hand removing the factory hood due to its weight, but once it is removed, you should be able to handle the much lighter carbon fiber hood.

The installation is fairly easy, so here is a quick guide to help you get it installed.

Start your installation by removing the windshield washer jets for the factory hood. Disconnect the tubing that runs to them by unclipping or unscrewing them. If there is a light attached to the hood, go ahead and remove it, as you may want to reuse it on the new hood.

With these removed, and with some help on the other side, prop the hood up with the hood prop if applicable. Remove the 4 bolts holding the hood to the hinges. If your hood has gas shocks, remove them before removing the hinge bolts. Be careful to support the weight of the hood when removing the hinge bolts to reduce the risk of damaging the fenders or the windshield. With the hinges and gas shocks unbolted, this will free up the heavy factory hood. Carefully remove it from the hinges by pulling it away from the windshield and set it aside.

Set the new carbon fiber hood in place. It will be significantly lighter than the factory steel hood. Line up the bolts on the hinges and tighten them down. Reattach the gas shocks if applicable, or set the hood prop in place. Reattach your windshield washer jets if your hood permits, and run the lines on the underside. If you saved your light and want to reattach it, you can do so at this point. it can be attached using some 3M adhesive double sided tape, or you can carefully screw it in place, making sure to use screws small enough to not penetrate the top of the hood.

Close the hood and check for alignment. If you need to adjust the alignment, lift the hood and loosen the hinge bolts slightly, just to where you can make small adjustments. Lower the hood and make any adjustments and re-tighten the bolts. This should complete your carbon fiber hood installation.




If you need any support or advice for your carbon fiber hood installation, visit the Carbon Fiber Hoods Blog.

Majestic Modifications is the complete car customization concept, specializing in car accessories, cold air intakes and performance upgrades, body kits and exterior accessories, glow gauges and interior accessories, wheels and tires, mobile video, car audio and electronics.

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

Fisherbrand Self-Adhesive Label Tape; 60 yd. (55m) Roll; 1 in. (25mm)

Fisherbrand Self-Adhesive Label Tape; 60 yd. (55m) Roll; 1 in. (25mm) Review




Fisherbrand Self-Adhesive Label Tape; 60 yd. (55m) Roll; 1 in. (25mm) Feature



Fisherbrand Self-Adhesive Label Tape; 60 yd. (55m) Roll; 1 in. (25mm) Overview


Tape, Label; Fisherbrand; Self-adhesive; Sticks to most surfaces; For use in autoclave, refrigerator/freezer, sterilizer, incubator; Resists oil, water, acid; White; 1 in. x 60 yd. (2.5cm x 55m)

Fisherbrand Self-Adhesive Label Tape; 60 yd. (55m) Roll; 1 in. (25mm) Specifications



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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 02, 2009 17:30:04

Minn Kota Trolling Motors

Intertape PG5 127 18mmx55m Natural Ipg Masking Tape

Intertape PG5 127 18mmx55m Natural Ipg Masking Tape Review




Intertape PG5 127 18mmx55m Natural Ipg Masking Tape Feature


  • Package Quantity: (1) 60 Yard Roll
  • Masking Tape Type: Masking Tape
  • Masking Tape Style: High Temperature Masking Tape
  • Color: Tan
  • Width (Inch): 3/4
  • Width (mm): 18mm
  • Length (Yards) (Yards): 60
  • Length Meter: 55
  • Thickness (mil): 6.7
  • Tensile Strength (Pounds): 28

Intertape PG5 127 18mmx55m Natural Ipg Masking Tape Overview


Specialty Painter's Masking Tape Masking Tape Type: Masking Tape Masking Tape Style: High Temperature Masking Tape Color: Tan Width: 3/4, 18 mm Length (Yards): 60 Length Meter: 55 Tensile Strength: 28

Intertape PG5 127 18mmx55m Natural Ipg Masking Tape Specifications



Available at Amazon Check Price Now!




*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 01, 2009 16:20:03

Minn Kota Trolling Motors